Category Archive: Gunks, NY

Apr 21

Gunks Routes: Easter Time Too & Good Friday Climb

In honor of Easter weekend, I went to the Near Trapps to climb the appropriately named “Easter Time Too” and “Good Friday Climb“. They are both excellent climbs, sharing a bolt anchor at the top.

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Apr 15

Gunks Routes: Trapps – Triangle (5.9-) to Never Never Land (5.10a)

Here’s another two climbs next to each other where there’s an easier lead that allows you to top rope a harder classic, Triangle (5.9-) and Never Never Land (5.10a).

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Sep 12

Gunks Routes: Trapps – Double Chin (5.5)/Something Scary (5.10ab)/Double Clutch (5.9+)

Here’s one of the easier routes we can climb to set up harder top ropes, near the beginning of the Trapps cliff in the Gunks. Double Chin is only 5.5, and you can set up top ropes from there to some much harder and pumpy 5.9 and 5.10 climbers.

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Restaurants in New Paltz

Restaurants in New Paltz There are lots and lots of restaurants in New Paltz, catering to just about everyone’s taste. I’ve divided them up by type of food, and provided maps to show which are in which areas of New Paltz. There are many more restaurants than I’ve listed, but I only felt I should …

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Dec 31

Fear and Learning to Lead Climb – My Daughter’s Perspective

Experiencing Fear, But Safely… In 2012, my younger daughter expressed the desire to learn to lead climb (trad). She was always a very cautious child, so of course, it surprised and thrilled me. First step was to get her used to following multi-pitch and seeing how to use trad lead climbing gear and how to …

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May 15

Restaurants – An Overview

Where to Eat (and Drink) Near the Gunks The main climbing areas of the Gunks are in the town of Gardiner, which has a small number of restaurants. Most of the “nightlife” is in the town of New Paltz, a fun and funky college town, home of the State University of New York (SUNY) at …

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Feb 25

Land Stewardship is Like Dating, or How I Fell In Love With the Gunks

Gunks Lovers – Romancing the Stone I recall someone at a Mohonk Preserve event mentioning how Gunks climbers evolve over time. In the beginning they try to cheat and get around the ranger so they don’t have to pay for a day pass. Later they understand the need to help pay to maintain the preserve …

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Jan 19

Ice Climbing Articles – Bogus Information

Climbing Ice and Bogus Climbing Articles Ice Climbing Suggestions in Places Where Climbing Ice is Prohibited I was browsing around for interesting climbing articles on the internet, and came across this ice climbing article: Where to Go Ice Climbing and Winter Hiking in the Gunks of New York.  Sounds interesting, especially since I never hear about …

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About the Gunks

What are the Gunks? Geography The Gunks are located west of the Hudson River in New York State. The official name of the ridge is the Shawangunk Mountains. This ridge runs north-south from vicinity of Rosendale in the north, and Ellenville in the south.  Most of the permitted rock climbing is in the Mohonk Preserve, …

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Getting to the Gunks

Getting to the Gunks – Travel Information A Word About Communications Before you plan your trip, if you have to meet up with people or call a cab, note that the cell phone service is spotty and unreliable once you get behind the cliffs. That includes the West Trapps parking lot, Minnewaska State Park Preserve, …

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