Category Archive: Gunks Beta

Information About the Gunks for Your Visit

Ahhh, the Gunks. My home crag. My first time climbing ever was a trip with my college outing club to the Gunks back in 1981. I visited the Gunks many weekends since then until I was able to move here full-time in 2010. I've answered questions over and over for people who come to visit here and figured it would be a good idea to write down all this Gunks beta and make it available to all. Hope it's helpful, and please comment if you have more questions or if I've missed anything important.

   

About the Gunks

Getting to the Gunks

Climbing at the Gunks

Gunks Routes

Where to eat near the Gunks

Where to sleep near the Gunks

What else to do near the Gunks

Apr 21

Gunks Routes: Easter Time Too & Good Friday Climb

In honor of Easter weekend, I went to the Near Trapps to climb the appropriately named “Easter Time Too” and “Good Friday Climb“. They are both excellent climbs, sharing a bolt anchor at the top.

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Apr 15

Gunks Routes: Trapps – Triangle (5.9-) to Never Never Land (5.10a)

Here’s another two climbs next to each other where there’s an easier lead that allows you to top rope a harder classic, Triangle (5.9-) and Never Never Land (5.10a).

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Sep 12

Gunks Routes: Trapps – Double Chin (5.5)/Something Scary (5.10ab)/Double Clutch (5.9+)

Here’s one of the easier routes we can climb to set up harder top ropes, near the beginning of the Trapps cliff in the Gunks. Double Chin is only 5.5, and you can set up top ropes from there to some much harder and pumpy 5.9 and 5.10 climbers.

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Restaurants in New Paltz

Restaurants in New Paltz There are lots and lots of restaurants in New Paltz, catering to just about everyone’s taste. I’ve divided them up by type of food, and provided maps to show which are in which areas of New Paltz. There are many more restaurants than I’ve listed, but I only felt I should …

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May 15

Restaurants – An Overview

Where to Eat (and Drink) Near the Gunks The main climbing areas of the Gunks are in the town of Gardiner, which has a small number of restaurants. Most of the “nightlife” is in the town of New Paltz, a fun and funky college town, home of the State University of New York (SUNY) at …

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About the Gunks

What are the Gunks? Geography The Gunks are located west of the Hudson River in New York State. The official name of the ridge is the Shawangunk Mountains. This ridge runs north-south from vicinity of Rosendale in the north, and Ellenville in the south.  Most of the permitted rock climbing is in the Mohonk Preserve, …

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Getting to the Gunks

Getting to the Gunks – Travel Information A Word About Communications Before you plan your trip, if you have to meet up with people or call a cab, note that the cell phone service is spotty and unreliable once you get behind the cliffs. That includes the West Trapps parking lot, Minnewaska State Park Preserve, …

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Climbing at the Gunks

View of the Millbrook Cliff, the highest cliff at the Gunks

Gunks Climbing – Where to Park & Basic Information Hazards Theft at the Gunks is rare, but has been known to occur. Cars rarely but occasionally are broken into. Gear accidentally left lying around can disappear. However, everyone seems comfortable leaving their packs at the base of multipitch climbs, returning later to find everything just …

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Restaurants in High Falls

Restaurants in High Falls The little hamlet of High Falls is west of Rosendale on Rt. 213 going west. It can also be reached from Mohonk Road past the Mohonk Mountain House. Here are some of the restaurants worth eating at in High Falls, plus there’s some good antique stores and an excellent flea market …

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Restaurants in Rosendale and Tillson

Restaurants in Rosendale and Tillson An alternative to the crowds in New Paltz is the cute little town of Rosendale. The New York Times seems to think it’s the next hippest thing, but it’s just a quiet little town along the river. Most straightforward way to get there from the Gunks is to go back …

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