Feb 03

And So This Is Fifty

Cliffmama under the table after posing with her 50th birthday cake.

Pay no attention to the 50 year old under the table.

The strangest thing happened to me a week ago. I turned 50 years old. I don’t know how it could be possible. There’s no way I could be 50. I don’t feel it. I don’t look it. I don’t act like it. I’m sillier than my teenage daughters! So where did the years go? How did I end up where I am, and where are I going?

I have to admit that I’ve been blessed. Blessed to have two great kids who share my passion for climbing. Blessed that I am still strong and healthy enough to climb without any injury bad enough to stop me from climbing. Sure there are aches and pains and some chronic issues I’m working through, but I know people younger than me with shoulder injuries that may prevent them from ever climbing again. I am blessed to have many friends and be part of this wonderful climbing community.

Cliffmama surrounded by her Gunks climbing friends at her 50th birthday party.

Fun times with friends at my 50th birthday party.

Last weekend I gave myself a birthday party and invited my old college outing club friends and my friends from the Gunks climbing community. What a joy to have 60 friends come over to celebrate my birthday with me! A handful of out of town guests arrived Friday night and didn’t leave until Sunday night. They helped me clean up and washed many dishes after the party. The main party was a pot luck dinner Saturday night. I counted a total of 62 people including myself and my daughter. The Gunks climbing community is a close knit one, where many people know each other. Unlike areas like Colorado with many cliffs to choose from that spreads the climbing population out, the Gunks are pretty much the only quality cliff for miles around. So the same climbers come back to the Gunks over and over again and you’re likely to see the same climbers over and over again. I spent 17 years living in suburban NJ and never felt like I really belonged there. Here at the Gunks I really treasure the love and support from my climbing friends and really feel like I’m a part of the Gunks climbing community.

My 50th year will be a difficult one in some respects. I will see my oldest daughter head off to college in the fall. My 25 year marriage to a man I’ve been with since I was 18 years old is coming to an end. I’m really not sure how I feel about dating again after all these years and if I’m ready yet to try. My future is uncertan. There are many challeges ahead.

Making belgian waffles for my friends the morning after my 50th birthday party.

Making belgian waffles for my friends the morning after my 50th birthday party.

Who would think a seemingly pointless sport would be the key to help me pull through this? Climbing will get me outside in the fresh air and will keep me motivated to exercise and stay in shape as I continue to age. Climbing will continue to be a powerful way to bond with my daughters as they grow older and more independent. Climbing has provided me with a community of wonderful and supportive friends where I finally feel I fit in and can be myself. Hopefully someday climbing will provide a way for me to meet a new life partner who I can share my love and my love of climbing with.

When you’re really passionate about something, it becomes a part of you and permeates every aspect of your life. Climbing will keep me fit and connected and it brings me joy and courage. Being 50 has already benefited me with an AARP discount at the Vegas hotel I’ve booked for my upcoming Red Rocks climbing trip. :-)

So this is 50. As the saying goes, I’m too young to be this old. But I think my 50s will be allright… because I’m a climber.

I leave you with my favorite quote. “You don’t stop playing because you grow old, you grow old because you stop playing.”

My birthday cake with edible image of me rock climbing on it.

Birthday cake!

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/cliffmama-turns-50/

Jan 04

My Daughter’s Marathon Death March in Japan

My Daughter is a Japanese Boy Scout

My 18 year old daughter is in Japan as an exchange student. It has been a life changing experience in so many ways for her. Besides the obvious guts it takes to travel to a foreign country, attend high school there and learn a new language, she also decided to join the boy scouts so she could get her outdoor adventure fix. Her first boy scout trip was to camp out in a typhoon so they could go vertical caving. She had never gone caving before but rappelling into a cave was no big deal for this experienced climber. She wore the right clothing too and was the only camper who wasn’t on the verge of getting hypothermic. She had to keep lending out her fleece jacket to warm up the other campers wearing cotton. The typhoon was blowing their tents away so they had to huddle in some small shed building. She thought it was AWESOME. That’s my girl!

Rappelling into a cave in Japan.

My daughter went vertical caving in Japan during a typhoon!

When my daughter joined the nordic ski team in 11th grade, she was concerned about the amount of running involved. She assumed she inherited my pathetic lungs. Even at the peak of fitness as a 16 year old gymnast, I couldn’t get around the track once without gasping for air and having pains in my side. But once she started running, she realized it was just in her head and was able to jog for modest distances, nothing more than perhaps 30-40 minutes.

100km Japanese Marathon Race? Why Not?

My daughter dressed in her Japanese boy scout uniform

My daughter’s Japanese Boy Scout uniform.

Imagine my surprise when she signed up to do a 100 kilometer race with her boy scout troop! She never did any kind of marathon training. She had participated in the dance team at the Japanese high school for the first half of the school year, so she was in decent shape, but wasn’t doing any kind of cross country training at all. The lazy teenager I used to know was gone. Instead, on the other side of the planet, my daughter was giving herself new challenges and actually finding the strength against all odds to succeed. Parents can say over and over again that you can accomplish anything you set your mind to, but sometimes your kids have to live through an experience like she did before they believe it.

So what did she accomplish? 104 km or 64.6 miles in 20 hours, 56 minutes.
Holy sh-t!
My daughter did that? I am blown away, I wouldn’t have even considered ever doing something like that. I am SO proud of her!

Sometimes parents are tempted to just get a babysitter so they can have their outdoor fun without the hassles of dragging tired children around. But those inconveniences we went through – of tired toddlers melting down on a hike or having to belay our child for what seems like an eternity while they thrash on a climb that they’re clearly never going to be able to do – are minor in comparison to the lessons learned and the character built. They’ve learned to accept the challenges and feel the joy in the accomplishments of doing what they thought they couldn’t do. It’s all worth it!

My older daughter in Japan.

Yeah, my daughter is a bad ass.

My daughter said this experience was “life changing”. She wrote up the story to use for her college application essay. Here it is:

The 100km Race Experience in Her Words

Evaluate a significant experience, achievement, risk you have taken, or ethical dilemma you have faced and its impact on you.

Until November 18th, 2012, I had limits. That afternoon I ran the last two kilometers, and sprinted across the finish line. Running? Yes. Speed walking? Yes. Sprinting? Just me. My team got lost at the start, and added four extra kilometers to the already hundred-kilometer race, but we still finished in twenty hours and 56 minutes flat.

Last summer, I joined the Japanese Boy Scouts. My troop and I have done various activities; so when they mentioned the 100-kilometer hike, I said I’d participate. I didn’t think about how demanding it would be to walk 100-kilometers (62-miles) in one day. A few months earlier I had been a member of the #1 High School Dance Club in Japan, and we practiced for up to seven hours a day, seven days a week. When I cried during practice, I thought that was my body telling me that I had reached my limit.

I was dead wrong.

At around kilometer 80, I could not keep back the tears. Unlike at dance where I could take a break, this time there was no stopping. My team cried with me. Our swollen red eyes and tear-streaked cheeks might have worried more than a few passersby, but even then we kept marching forward. When pressed for time, it was my job to set a faster pace. When it was not my turn to lead, I walked in second, and let my friends’ energy pull me forward.

Although I raised team morale after our four-kilometer detour, I almost gave up with just eight kilometers to go. In the fifty minutes remaining, I thought the goal was impossible to reach. We were all tired, sore, and far beyond fatigued. My teammates were convinced we could make it. They pulled me to my feet, and dragged me out of Checkpoint 11 onto the last stretch of the course. There was no turning back. The tears flowed as we half ran, half walked towards the finish. I’m glad that I didn’t drop out at the final checkpoint.

My team was the only all-girls team. The leaders said that we needed a guy on the team to help us to the end. Out of ten teams, three dropped out of the race, but even with our four-kilometer disadvantage, we came in fifth. To reach the finish in time, we ran the last two-kilometers.

Humans are really amazing creatures. Our bodies can surprise us with what they are capable of. My real limit was nowhere near where I had believed it to be. I could continue walking through the tears. When I told my body to keep moving forward through the pain, it obeyed.

Here is the translation of the message I wrote, in Japanese, to my teammates the night after the race:

It’s the first time that I have been so thankful for my futon. ^_^

It was difficult, and we cried a lot, but I have come to believe that if I set my mind to something, anything is possible.

Thank you!

My daughter with her Japanese classmates in Fukuoka.

Find the Chinese-Jewish-American in this picture of Japanese schoolgirls.

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/daughter-races-japanese-marathon/

Dec 31

Fear and Learning to Lead Climb – My Daughter’s Perspective

Experiencing Fear, But Safely…

My tiny 9 year old daughter cruising Golden Dream, Peter's Kill, the Gunks, on top rope.

My daughter as a tiny 9 year old, cruising Golden Dream (5.9+)

In 2012, my younger daughter expressed the desire to learn to lead climb (trad). She was always a very cautious child, so of course, it surprised and thrilled me. First step was to get her used to following multi-pitch and seeing how to use trad lead climbing gear and how to build safe climbing anchors. She had already lead sport a handful of times, but it was easy stuff, nothing harder than 5.7. She has always been a natural climber with excellent technique and was following 5.10 at the age of 10, eventually getting up a 5.11 when she was 12. So learning to lead climb should be easy, right?

One of our favorite climbs is in the Gunks is at the Peter’s Kill crag – part of Lake Minnewaska State Park. There is a perfect corner with a finger crack in it with thin barely-there footholds to stem on – called “Golden Dream”. It goes at 5.9+ and gets steeper near the top. A short but stunning line to climb!  My kids and I have climbed it many times. It’s easy to walk around to get to the top and use the bolts at the top to set up a top-rope. We’ve even run there after school to do a lap on it before dark during the week. I have led it a couple of times and my daughter had cruised it (on top rope) on her first try when she was only 9 years old. So she’s good at this climb and knows it well.

My daughter doing a mock lead of Golden Dream at Peter's Kill climbing area, Lake Minnewaska, The Gunks. 2012

My daughter mock leading Golden Dream (5.9+) in 2012.

I decided one day to let her try a mock-lead with trad gear. She didn’t have much experience placing trad gear so I wasn’t ready to let her try leading a trad climb on her own. Mock lead seemed like a good way to let her experience leading and having to place gear on a tricky climb with the safety of a top rope. She hadn’t really experienced the fear of being on the sharp end on a tricky climb when you’re barely standing on anything and your arms are getting pumped out – playing with gear to find the right size, dealing with rope drag, having to pull up the rope to clip – all new to her. The top rope was already set up and I gave her the rack and let her go. Usually a confident climber, she discovered that even with the top rope to protect her, doing this mock lead was terrifying.

So when she needed a subject to write about in her 10th grade English class, she wrote about her experience doing this mock lead. This is only her first draft. Her teacher made her rewrite parts of it to dumb it down for non-climbers. I wanted to post the more climber-friendly version so I promised her I would put this disclaimer in that it was an early draft in case someone thought her essay wasn’t very good. But it was an interesting insight into what she was feeling and her first experience with fear while climbing.

(Note from mom: My daughter complains that she sucks at writing essays. If you liked her essay, please comment on the blog so she can see it).

My Daughter’s Essay on Lead Climbing and Fear

4 November 2012

Before I pushed my limits as a rock climber I never appreciated the mental strength needed to lead climb. Being a climber for most of my life, I was never put on “the sharp end” as climbers call it. When you lead climb you climb above the rope placing gear into the cliff as you go up. This means you are responsible for your own safety compared to top rope climbing where there is an anchor already set and the rope is above you. My mother was a climber even before I was born, growing up she shared her passion with me and my older sister. I grew up with little fear of heights or with my safety while climbing, due to what felt secure in my mind. The experience was always fun without a shred of fear of climbing over a hundred feet off the ground with only gear, a rope, and maybe bolts keeping me from making ground fall.  When I did a mock lead of a crack climb Golden Dream in Peter’s Kill did I truly feel the fear of falling. A mock lead is done when learning to lead climb. It involves the gear placement and rope dragging of lead climbing but also has the safety of being on a top rope. When mock leading you pretend that you are leading, as such I set within my mind the notion that if I don’t have good gear or any gear in that I am not safe and have the risk of falling and getting hurt, even killed, for me this was very scary. This was my first feeling of being on the sharp end.

Fear is a weird thing, even if I was not really in danger. I convinced my mind that I was and as a result I felt fear. Climbing is a dangerous sport, I have known that since I was 5 years old, but the fear factor felt when your life depends on your actions I never had felt or thought about what people meant by the term “lead head.” The lead head refers to a climber’s ability to push back the fear and maintain a clear head to push through difficult routes. When I felt the fear course through me for the first time I was scared. My legs were tired and they spasmed from stemming the corner. My arms screamed at me to let them rest. My head kept yelling at me that I was going to fall or die. My fingers cramped from the small holds and threatened to slip out of the finger sized crack. My mom coached me up from her position below me, her hands occupied with the other end of the rope. I trusted her with my life as I forced my limbs to do my will and control my fear of falling. When compared to top rope climbing, if you used the Yosemite Decimal System, which consists of the classes 1 to 5 and the grades 1 to 15, it feels 2 grades harder due to fear and exhaustion of having to stop to place gear. Golden Dream was rated 5.9+ and I can climb 5.10s comfortably on top rope so Golden Dream felt more like a 5.11 when I was mock leading it. Being in a similar position to other lead climbers made me appreciate them more knowing that the difference between leading and top rope was very large.

My daughter at the top of the climb Golden Dream at Peter's Kill climbing area of Lake Minnewaska State Park.

Reaching the top of Golden Dream

My mother always told me that climbing is dangerous, that you never will be completely safe, but I should always do all I can to make myself safe. When top roping the anchor and your belayer is what keeps you safe, for lead climbing it is your belayer and the gear you place on the way up. Gear is the hard part, you can place gear but that doesn’t mean that it is good gear. Cams, nuts, etc., they all have the chance of popping out. Climbing is never 100% safe but you can make it as secure as possible. I knew I would be as safe as I could with my mom on the other end of the rope, but with the mindset I gave myself I did not feel safe or secure at all. I conquered my fear and kept going. I forged the path for myself. If I was really leading by giving into the fear I had a larger risk of falling, but by pushing it to the side I was able to move up to where I could place protection. Never stopping, with climbing, you can either push ahead or down climb to your last piece and take a rest before trying again. This is an important fact that, by going back you are not a coward but a person able to keep themselves safe and make decisions under the stress and danger of climbing.

When climbing is concerned fear, safety and being scared are natural occurrences. Fear is there to tell us that it is time to get some protection to keep ourselves from harm. Safety is never a hundred percent but a climber must do their best to be as safe as possible. Being scared is OK but to overcome the feeling is what makes a good lead climber. A climber cannot be too careful or too bold. To find the balance of the two is the challenge that all climbers must face and overcome.

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/fear-learning-to-lead-climb/

Dec 13

Missing Potrero Chico, Mexico

Fond Memories of Potrero Chico, Mexico.

View of the El Toro cliff. Potrero Chico rock climbing area, Mexico

El Toro, Potrero Chico, Mexico

  • Soaring limestone cliffs over 2,000 feet tall.
  • Warm pleasant temperatures in February.
  • A laid-back international climbing community ready to make new friends. Generous and friendly locals happy to see us year after year.
  • Delicious homemade burritors barbacoa at Checo’s place.
  • Stray dogs that follow you to the cliff and spend the day with you as your temporary crag dog.
  • Being greeted at my casita by a family of cats.
  • Swilling a giant caguama cerveza after a hot day in the sun, and passing around a bottle of El Compadre tequila late in the evening.
My friends doing synchronized swilling of caguamas (huge beers) in Potrero Chico, Mexico

Ethan and Scooter doing synchornized caguama swilling

The highlight of my winters from 2002 to 2010 was rock climbing at Potrero Chico. I only missed one winter, 2009, because I had an opportunity to go to Ecuador and the Galapagos instead. Each time I’d be there about 7 to 12 days and hate to leave. But 2011 was different. Monterrey is where we fly into, and travel about 45 minutes from the airport to Potrero Chico. We read in the news that drug cartels had begun fighting in Monterrey, and dead bodies were hung from bridges, piles of massacred bodies were found on the side of the road. I was hoping to bring my girls to Potrero for the first time that winter, but my husband nixed that idea and I admit I was too nervous as well. So I stayed home. Then I stayed home again this winter (early 2012) and worked long days in the office.
Cliffmama flexing at the top of 7 pitch rock climb Snot Girlz in Potrero Chico, Mexico.

Cliffmama at the summit of “Snot Girlz” (5.10d, 7 pitches) in 2002, Potrero Chico, Mexico

I can’t bear the thought of waiting all winter until spring arrives at the Gunks to climb outdoors again. I’m always easily chilled and my hands take forever to warm up – so I’ve never had any desire to ice climb. My idea of winter climbing is going to Mexico and climbing in a tank top in February.

Hanging out drinking with a big group of new and old climbing friends at La Posada, at Potrero Chico, Mexico.

Hanging out with new & old climbing friends at La Posada.

Isn’t Mexico Dangerous Now?

I have a number of friends who kept going to Potrero each winter anyway. They haven’t seen any problems. They say arrive during the daytime, get a ride directly from the airport to Potrero, take the toll highway, and don’t spend time hanging out in Monterrey – and I’ll be fine. Well it’s time to return to Potrero this winter. I bought my plane tickets and I have a couple of months to practice what little Spanish I know and try to lose a few pounds, recover from some scrambled muscles in my neck and shoulder and get in shape.

Museum of Mexican History in Monterrey, Mexico

Will have to skip visiting the beautiful museums of Monterrey.

The Locals of Potrero Chico

Sure, the climbing community is bumming because a favorite winter climbing destination (and an inexpensive one at that) has been taken off the list because of the fear of violence. But the real victims are the locals. Potero isn’t a major tourist destination. It supports local groups in the summer who come to enjoy the large pool complex in the canyon and it hosts climbers in the winter. Tourists don’t go there, climbers do. When I started going to Potrero in 2002, it was still fairly primitive. There weren’t that many places to stay (Rancho Cerro Gordo, Homero’s and La Pagoda were there, La Posada was just getting started). There was only 1 restaurant (Checo’s), but it was very tasty food and we were happy to go there every night. The water supply was a series of black hoses that went from a tank filled by the aqueduct across the sidewalks to each person’s house. They were always leaking. But you could drink the canyon spring water from the tap and it was delicious. I never had the “Mexican ass flu” on any of my trips there.

Potable drinking water in multiple hoses along the sidewalk from the aqueduct to homes in Potrero Chico, Mexico.

The former water supply in Potrero Chico, Mexico

With the climbers came the climbers’ money. The little area quintas added restaurants, built new casitas to rent, refurbished their swimming pools and business was great. Then the violence started happening in Monterrey and the crowds of foreign climbers disappeared just like that. Friends who kept going anyway told me the place was empty. Restaurants closed. You’d have to hitch or walk 45 minutes to Hidalgo, the nearest town, to buy food at the market. It made me so sad to hear this. These local business-people have always been so nice to us, and so generous.

Sue and I having a cerveza with our friend Gilberto from La Pagoda, Potrero Chico, Mexico.

Sue and I with Gilberto

Our friend Gilberto from La Pagoda would drive us to Hidalgo to go to the market and meet us an hour later to drive us back. He would refuse any gas money. On cold days, we would return to our casita and he sometimes would have already made a fire in the fireplace for us. He’d hang out with us and give us Spanish language lessons. I remember when I got injured, the police car escorted us to the clinic in Hidalgo to make sure we didn’t get lost. Everyone was so nice to me in the hospital. Luis from La Posada said he was so worried about me and he had been praying for me. Luckily I only suffered bruised ribs. On rainy days Tami would welcome us into her little cafe to relax and chat and give me little presents to bring home to my daughters.

Collage from Superbowl watching party at Homeros, Potrero Chico - garden hoe supported satellite dish, tiny TV and climbers on the patio.

Superbowl party at Homero’s (the satellite dish was held up by a garden hoe and all of us were watching this tiny TV set!)

We enjoyed a fun superbowl party outside at Homero’s where we chowed on steak dinner. One year, my friends were invited to a superbowl party and the locals took them to a friend’s house where they watched it on TV sitting on some guy’s bed in a small house. Story after story of friendly and caring locals. Now, the hundreds of climbers weren’t coming to Potrero anymore to support these businesses.

Cliffmama climbing on Sancho Panza (5.11a), Potrero Chico

The beautiful limestone face climbs in the Virgin Canyon (me in green shirt on Sancho Panza, 5.11a)

Potrero Chico, Here I Come

Well it’s time to return. I want to bring my spending money to Potrero and help the local businesses. This time we won’t be spending a rest day touring the beautiful museums of Monterrey and having drinks in the old town district. But we will return, we will climb, and we will do what we can to return the love.

Cliffmama dancing while rock climbing the Spires, Potrero Chico, Mexico.

Dancing with joy on the perfect 2nd pitch arete of Aguja Celo Rey (5.10b) on the Spires. My favorite pitch in Potrero.

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/missing-potrero-chico-mexico/

Jul 12

A Mother’s Plea to Women’s Activewear Clothing Companies

Please Make Activewear for Women Climbers Like Me

I love those sexy camisole type tank tops that brands like Patagonia, Prana, Stonewear Designs, Athleta, etc.., sell all the time. Beautiful colors and prints. Great way to show off the shoulder and back muscles when climbing. When I look through the catalog, they look fantastic on the lean and strong bodies who wear them. But what about those of us who aren’t so lean anymore? Where can we find athletic and sexy clothing that isn’t skin tight and revealing more than we prefer?

28 year old Cliffmama looking slim in a bathing suit, posing in front of the ocean at a Club Med in Mexico.

Cliffmama at 28 years old

I was blessed with a fast metabolism. I could eat what I wanted, when I wanted, as much as I wanted. I stayed the same slim but athletic build for most of my life. Even after giving birth to 2 children, both times I was back in my old bluejeans within a month. My tummy was never going to be flat again, but I could still wear those sexy athletic camisole-type tank tops.

But then I hit 40 years old. I put on 10 pounds and my metabolism slowed down. It wasn’t that noticeable to most people, but that’s because I started wearing baggy non-clingy clothing and I stopped ever tucking in my shirt so no one would see the folds of belly that appeared when I sat down or put on a climbing harness. As I approach 50 years old, while the rest of my body looks like that of a strong climber, my tummy tone just keeps deteriorating. It may be the dreaded “middle-age spread”.  It’s getting harder and harder to keep those pounds off my tummy. My mother was slim everywhere except around the middle, where she was really round. That’s where my family puts on all their weight.

Yeah, I know, it could be worse. I have friends who have fought to get slim or stay slim all their lives. But it’s all relative. I wouldn’t call myself fat, but compared to my body 10 years ago, yeah, I’ve definitely got more fat around the middle and my pants size keeps going up. It’s been years since I’ve been at my ideal weight and I wonder if I will ever get there again.

Cliffmama wearing a Patagonia Hotline shirt in 2008 when they had a slit in the back so the tummy wouldn't be so snug.

Cliffmama in 2008 in my favorite Patagonia Hotline Top, which had a slit in the back so it wasn’t snug around the tummy.

Ideas for Activewear for Women Who Don’t Look Like Models

It drives me crazy to keep leafing through these activewear catalogs, seeing clothes that I really like, mail ordering them, trying them on, only to have to ship them back, disappointed that they highlight my growing tummy flab. Page after page show strong and slim models, totally flat and ripped abs, and they look great in these clothes. Why oh why can’t these activewear clothing companies make clothes we can climb, hike, bike, do yoga in – that help us look slimmer, support us better, hide the parts that need work, and still look good on us? It doesn’t take much. Perhaps some light removable cups in the bra area when an elastic shelf bra can’t repair what a couple of years of breastfeeding has done. How about busier prints in the tummy area to make it harder to tell the difference between folds of clothing and folds of flab?  I loved the Patagonia Hotline tank tops from around 2008. What was unique was that they had a slit cut in the back of the shirt, so it wasn’t so tight around the tummy. They came in big bold prints and patterns on beefy cotton to make it harder to notice squishy abs. It was still sexy and pretty and easy to exercise in. My only complaint about it is the sizing didn’t fit my smaller chest that well, but that’s usually the case. Then after 2008 they revised the Hotline tank and the notch in the back was gone, replaced with a thinner material and more snug fit – just like the rest of them.

All Athletic Women Have Perfect Flauntable Bodies, Right?

Even super fit, active women don’t have perfect bodies. Some have breasts that need more support. Some have a big waist no matter how hard they try, especially if they’ve had children. Some will always have cellulite on their thighs. Some butts are bigger than others. The majority of us are NOT perfect. And all those slim active women buying those athletic clothes will get older and have less perfect bodies. Wouldn’t it be nice if the clothing companies would make activewear that didn’t assume we were forever young and slim? C’mon folks, give us a break. Be creative. Make a line of clothing for women who want freedom of movement for their legs without a skin-hugging pant that shows off how imperfect their asses are. How about a tank top that doesn’t put the boobs on display when you bend over? Or more than a shelf bra when the girls aren’t so perky anymore? Make the shirts less skin tight and help us hide the bulges when we sit down and it’s muffin-top time. I bet they would sell like crazy! There’s a huge market of women who don’t have model bodies who are waiting to buy clothes that make them look their best. Build brand loyalty while we’re young and slim, then keep us buying as our bodies age or when our fitness level goes down and the weight goes up.

Now, some of you might think I’m too vain, and I admit that I’m self-conscious as I see my body aging. Perfect is in the eye of the beholder, so any thought of defining “perfect” is a myth. Many women really don’t care how they look or what they wear, and I admire that. I wish I could just let go and accept my aging figure and not strive to work hard to go back to what I used to look like. But it bugs me. I am a climber. I want to be fit and strong, I want to feel fit and strong and yes, I want to look fit and strong. I wish it were easier to find clothes that help me feel and look fit and strong.

So what about it Patagonia? Bring back the slit-back Hotline tank! Can you help us out Stonewear Designs? Hey Prana, I may be too old for your demographic, but I love many of your fashions and would love clothes that aren’t 2 sizes smaller than they say they are. How about some clothes for the rest of us Athleta?  I’ll be happy to model your clothes when they don’t show off my not-so-firm tummy. In the meantime, I will be buying from other clothing manufacturers who make baggier clothes.

Stay with me over the next 20 years, and you can watch me transform from Cliffmama to Cliffgranny climbing in a muumuu over my polyester stretch pants.

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/womens-activewear-clothing-companies/

Jun 12

MOM – Job Description

This has been circulating around the internet for years, but worth sharing again with all the moms who may not have seen it.

POSITION:Cliffmama with her children back in 2001.

Mother, Mom, Mama, Mommy

JOB DESCRIPTION:

Long term, team players needed, for challenging permanent work in an, often chaotic environment. Candidates must possess excellent communication and organizational skills and be willing to work variable hours, which will include evenings and weekends and frequent 24 hour shifts on call. Some overnight travel required, including trips to primitive camping sites on rainy weekends and endless sports tournaments in far away cities. Travel expenses not reimbursed. Extensive courier duties also required.

RESPONSIBILITIES:

The rest of your life. Must be willing to be hated, at least temporarily, until someone needs $5. Must be willing to bite tongue repeatedly. Also, must possess the physical stamina of a pack mule and be able to go from zero to 60 mph in three seconds flat in case, this time, the screams from the backyard are not someone just crying wolf. Must be willing to face stimulating technical challenges, such as small gadget repair, mysteriously sluggish toilets and stuck zippers. Must screen phone calls, maintain calendars and coordinate production of multiple homework projects. Must have ability to plan and organize social gatherings for clients of all ages and mental outlooks. Must be willing to be indispensable one minute, an embarrassment the next. Must handle assembly and product safety testing of a half million cheap, plastic toys, and battery operated devices. Must always hope for the best but be prepared for the worst. Must assume final, complete accountability for the quality of the end product. Responsibilities also include floor maintenance and janitorial work throughout the facility.

POSSIBILITY FOR ADVANCEMENT AND PROMOTION:

Virtually none. Your job is to remain in the same position for years, without complaining, constantly retraining and updating your skills, so that those in your charge can ultimately surpass you

PREVIOUS EXPERIENCE:

None required unfortunately. On-the-job training offered on a continually exhausting basis.

WAGES AND COMPENSATION:

Get this! You pay them! Offering frequent raises and bonuses. A balloon payment is due when they turn 18 because of the assumption that college will help them become financially independent. When you die, you give them whatever is left. The oddest thing about this reverse-salary scheme is that you actually enjoy it and this wish you could only do more.

BENEFITS:

While no health or dental insurance, no pension, no tuition reimbursement, no paid holidays and no stock options are offered; this job supplies limitless opportunities for personal growth and free hugs for life if you play your cards right.

 

Note: This job description is all over the internet and I was unable to find who the author was to give it proper credit. If you are the author, please contact me and I will be happy to give you credit or remove it from my site.

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/mother-job-description/

May 16

Family Climbing Tips – Making Climbing Time Family Time

How to Make Climbing With Kids Successful and Safe

Cliffmama helping her kid climbing at the Gunks in 2001.

Cliffmama & daughter, climbing at the Gunks 2001

Just because you’re a parent doesn’t mean you can’t still get out and climb! This Guide to Family Climbing is meant to help climbers with children get out and climb and find other friendly families to climb with and make life much easier.

I started bringing my kids to the crag when they were very young. They would just dangle from a rope sometimes. Eventually they blew me away with how easily they took to the rock, climbing things I didn’t think they were ready for. We often climbed with other families and many times they only climbed one climb and spent the rest of the time playing with the other kids while the adults kept climbing. Sometimes pretending boulders were homes or forts, making pretend potions with leaves and rocks, playing card games, or exploring the crevices around the cliff.

I think the success I had with getting my children to love climbing as a lot to do with having other kids there to play with. It motivated them to come out because the cliffs were a magnificent playground they could explore with their buddies. As they got older, the kids motivated each other to climb, seeing that their friend got up it (or didn’t) made them want to try it. Soon they were belaying each other after the adults set up the top ropes.

Now I have two teenagers who absolutely love climbing and can climb harder grades than their old mommy.  The best part?  Pursuing my passion for climbing doesn’t have to take away any family time. Our family vacations are climbing vacations. Quality time with my kids is climbing a multipitch with them and relaxing at the top and absorbing the beauty. Here’s some of the things that worked for me, and how to make the experience safe and enjoyable for everyone.

The Problem with Being a Climber AND a Parent

  • Parents with very young children cannot climb and give their kids the attention they need while one is climbing and one is belaying.
  • Parents with young adolescents want to get them started in climbing, but they are young enough that they need a lot of attention, encouragement and can’t be left alone.
  • Parents with teenagers need an incentive to get them to want to climb instead of hanging out with their friends.
  • Parents who want to climb in different areas far away from home feel trapped because they have no one to watch the kids when they travel.
  • A non-climbing parent married to a climber doesn’t want to have the kids constantly dumped on them when the spouse goes climbing.

How to Make Climbing With Kids Easier

Climbing Dad, Chris, carrying gear, bouldering pad, kid supplies and his daughter on his back.

Be prepared to have to carry all you need to keep kids comfortable and happy.

  • Climb with another family or kid-friendly climbers to help increase the adult to children ratio.
  • Set up top ropes or lead 1 pitch climbs with one adult climbing, one adult belaying and at least 1 extra adult to keep an eye on the kids. Also, you can set up 1 easy top rope for the kids to do if there are 2 extra adults – one to belay kids, one to watch the kids who aren’t climbing.  Sometimes it takes 2 adults to help a child on a climb – one to belay and one to help encourage, place feet on footholds or “tushie-push”.
  • If the children are very young or still babies, best to have one of the parents free while the other is climbing or belaying with another adult. Some kids only respond to their parents.
  • Swap turns doing longer routes – one parent from each couple does a climb, the others watch the kids, then they switch.
  • Find another couple with a non-climbing parent. The non-climbers can socialize with each other, attend to the kids and go on field trips to local events or hikes, and as soon as the climbing day is over, the climbing spouses take over kid duties. Perhaps the non-climbing parents can get the night off to play and the climbing parents put the kids to bed.
  • Find other families who live near popular climbing areas and take turns hosting each other so travel to climbing areas isn’t as expensive or hard to manage.
  • It helps if the children are close enough in age to enjoy each other’s company. Sometimes they have so much fun they don’t want to bother climbing at all. Rocks, sticks, acorns, a puddle and leftover ziploc bags can provide hours of amusement (my daughters spent 2 hours playing with just that). A deck of cards or Uno is great for older kids who like games. Bring something for them to sit on (tarp or opened rope bag), use a tarp or pop-up tent for shade if it’s really hot and sunny, they can bring kid-sized crazy creek chairs (less than $10 at places like Walmart) or sit on a bouldering pad. Other good ideas for fun are bug catching equipment, action figures or dolls that can get dirty, rubber bands for harnesses, toy biners, and some nylon cord to use for mini-belays and zip lines.
  • Don’t forget lots snacks and things to drink.
  • You can’t push too hard. If they’re uncomfortable or tired, forcing them to keep climbing or waiting for you will only make the experience less enjoyable and discourage them from going the next time. Pick your battles, be sensitive to their needs and try to make it fun. When it stops being fun, you may just have to go home and try again next time.
  • Bring a first aid kit. Bandaids do wonders for little boo-boos.
  • Bring child-safe bug repellent – inspect for lyme-disease ticks and keep kids from being miserable from black flies & mosquitoes.
  • Don’t forget the sunscreen!
  • Nothing like the bribe of ice cream after climbing if everyone behaves and has a great day!

Climbing with Older Kids and Teenagers

Climbing with teenagers at the New River Gorge - Jasmine, Ariel and Alex relaxing on a ledge, 2011.

Climbing Teenagers at the New River Gorge – My daughters with their climbing buddy Alex in 2011.

  • Find other families with kids of similar ages. Hopefully the kids will enjoy each other’s company and family climbing is as much about hanging out with their friends as climbing with their parents.
  • Avoid letting them bring electronic gadgets. It’s just too easy to tune out and avoid participation if there is something easy to distract them. Without gadgets, there’s more of a chance the kids will socialize with the other climbing kids.  We left the gadgets in the car. They could enjoy them on the drive home.
  • If you have a good climbing gym near home, sign the kids up for their climbing club or climbing team. They will train and get strong, learn skills and find other kids they want to climb with. Then you can bring along one of their friends when you go climbing and they’ll be happy to climb outdoors with their buddies.  And if they’re on the climbing team and are good enough compete, well, then they can be your rope gun!
  • Involve your kids with land stewardship and volunteer activities. Make them feel a sense of ownership and responsibility for the environment. Many schools have community service requirements. Discuss projects that they can do to help. My daughters would sometimes go to the parking lot at the Gunks and pick up trash for their community service requirement. They helped build trails and pull invasive plant species. I think this helped them be more aware of the amount of maintenance required at the crag, and the impacts that people, over grazing deer populations and invasive plants have on the environment.

Climbing Multi-pitch with Kids

My daughter Jasmine when she was 13 and her friend Brittany on a ledge climbing multipitch at the Gunks.

Jasmine (13) and Brittany (12) climbing multipitch at the Gunks

  • Having double ropes makes it easier. The leader uses double ropes and clips into pieces as normal on the way up. When at the belay station, set up an anchor so that you can see the climbers if possible. Put the child on one rope, and another adult on the other so they can help the child if necessary. Use an auto locking belay device like an ATC guide or reverso that can accommodate 2 ropes to belay both ropes at the same time. Have the child climb first about 10 feet ahead of the other climber so if there is any problem getting gear out the other climber can climb up and help. Try to have two clip in points ready at the belay station so there is not too much shifting when you’re ready to start leading again. Make sure the climb is something they can manage to get up – by themselves or with help from the adult climbing next to them.
  • Not as ideal but if you don’t have double ropes, smaller/lighter kids can be tied into the rope a few feet in front of the adult, assuming the adult is not likely to fall themselves and yank the kid off the rock. Give the kid enough space to move freely, but close enough that the adult can easily climb up to them and assist if necessary.
  • Lightweight kids have a hard time rappelling. They don’t have enough body weight to slide down the rope. I’ve seen my 60 pound daughter using all her energy trying to pull up the weight of two 60m ropes to shove through her rappel device during a long free rap off of a 2 pitch climb.  It took forever and she was exhausted afterwards. You don’t even need to bother with a friction knot for backup because they can barely move down the rope. A fireman’s belay at the bottom is better and an adult should be at the top to send them off and another on the bottom to belay and help them clip in to any intermediate rap anchors.

Instill an understanding of climbing safety, etiquette and ethics from the start
so they can grow up to be responsible climbers.

Etiquette Tips – Not Everyone Thinks Your Child is Amazing

  • If you have a kid who can’t behave themselves, get a babysitter. You will have more fun, and so will everyone around you.
  • It’s important to be reliable because if a family is depending on you to provide that third adult to help watch kids and you don’t show up, they are out of a climbing day.
  • Remember that not everyone wants to see children at the cliffs. So everyone can enjoy their day, monitor the childrens’ behavior, noise level, and courtesy.
  • If they are very young, keep them out of other people’s stuff.

Safety Tips – You are Responsible for Their Safety & Teaching Them How to be Safe Climbers

Climbing Daddies, Chris and Tom, climbing with kids at the Gunks, 2012

Chris and Tom, climbing dads, climbing with their daughters at the Gunks.

  • Make sure the other adults are in sync with your comfort level of safety with the children.  If you’re up on a climb and the adult watching your kid is letting them boulder 20 feet up without a spotter, you may not be too happy. Communicate your expectations to the other parents who are helping to monitor our children.
  • Obviously, watch out for steep drop offs, slippery leaves and eroded trails.
  • Babies and toddlers should not be hanging out close to the base of the cliff because they may not be able to get away from falling debris. Any children at the cliff should be wearing helmets. For adults, we can weigh the risks, but children do not necessarily comprehend the danger – protect them.
  • I know it’s a personal preference thing, but I always wear a helmet when I’m climbing with my kids. Set a good example so they protect themselves and don’t question or reject wearing a helmet.
  • Do not leave a child alone at the base of a climb when you want to climb multi-pitch. They may try to find you, get hit with falling debris, wander off, or even worse. Would you leave your child sitting outside a store by themselves when you go into shop? I think not. Plus it’s difficult to climb when your kid is alone at the bottom either crying, calling you, or doing something dangerous.
  • Warn them that not all dogs are friendly. Check first before you let them approach strange dogs.

    Busy Uberfall area of the Gunks with teenagers, 4 year old kids and a pink tent.

    Yes, that is a pink tent at the Gunks

  • Watch out for dangerous natural hazards – poisonous snakes, spiders… teach them to recognize poison ivy, keep an eye out for cactus.  My daughter was looking for shade in the rock nooks and crannies of Joshua Tree. Apparently so were the snakes. She almost stepped on a rattle snake! She’s been terrified of snakes ever since.
  • Give the children a safety reminder talk every time you take them climbing. These are the items I always told my kids about before climbing, every time, until I knew they got it.
    • Remind them that climbers and belayers need to hear each other. Keep the noise level down. No screaming, loud voices, annoying repetitive noises… If your child is crying or having a tantrum, remove them from the area where people are climbing. It’s very distracting to hear a kid screaming when you’re trying to lead.
    • Remind them not to step on the ropes or other gear.
    • Teach them to look after their buddies – prevent them from doing unsafe things, remind them of the safety rules, and get a grown-up if there is a dangerous situation that we’re not aware of. Not every parent teaches their kids about safety, so your kids can help teach them too.
    • Teach them not to throw rocks down when there could be people below that they can’t see.
    • When it comes to listening, anything related to safety is non-negotiable. I told my children that they must follow safety rules. If they can’t, then they won’t get to come climb anymore until they can behave safely.

Teach Leave No Trace

4 young climbing kids with bags of trash that they picked up at an Adopt-A-Crag event at Minnewaska in 2006.

Climbing Kids Picked Up Trash at Adopt-A-Crag Event

  • Teach them how to care for their environment. No littering – or give them a bag to help clean up litter that they see.
  • Don’t spread their toys and gear all over the place so people have to trample off-trail to get around the group.
  • Discourage damage to plants and trees, or little “landscaping” projects that encourage erosion.
  • No graffitti whether it’s sidewalk chalk or scraping their initials into the rock.
  • Take them to the potty and don’t leave toilet paper litter. If you’re going somewhere without facilities, bring ziploc bags to put dirty toilet paper in.
  • I sometimes would give my kids a contest. They’d each get a small ziploc bag. We’d see who had the most garbage in it after we walked down the trail. If they have the habit of picking up trash often, they’ll be less likely to leave trash themselves.

Kids’ Climbing Gear

Tiny kids climbing gear: An adult climbing shoe next to a tiny chalk bag and small children's swim shoes.

Tiny climbing gear!

  • Young children definitely need a full body harness so they don’t tip upside down.  I’ve seen it happen to my friend’s daughter who had a seat harness made of webbing and it can scare a child out of climbing again for a long time. If you don’t have one, then include a chest harness.
  • Bring a helmet for the kid that fits.  Often they can’t keep themselves facing the right way when being lowered (they cling to the rope) and end up twisting sideways and whacking themselves into the rock. When my kids started hanging on the ropes at 3 the only kind of helmet we could find that fit was a bike helmet.
  • If they’re only climbing easy stuff or not really climbing much at all, don’t waste money on climbing shoes. Cheap slipper-style swim shoes work just fine and rarely cost more than $15 a pair. I only felt compelled to buy my children real climbing shoes when they were able to climb 5.7.  Save money and look for used pairs, especially from other climbing families. They might even give you their old shoes. Kids outgrow their climbing shoes very fast! Make sure they try them on before you leave for any climbing trips. Don’t give up a climbing day having to go shopping for new shoes!

When are the kids old enough to climb?

  • I started letting my children play on a rope at the age of 3.   At this age, most don’t have the strength to really climb much, but they enjoy swinging from the rope.
  • Around the age of 5 (depending on size) they can get up very easy climbs on their own power, or with an occasional lift on the rope. We started them in the gym, it’s more obvious to them where the holds are.
  • The biggest problem with any young child is how to lower them. Many are too intimidated to let go of the rock, especially if they’re on a comfortable ledge – they don’t want to back off.  You may need a second adult to go up to where they are and help them down – either by getting the lowering process started or by having to clip into the rope with them and hold onto them while you get lowered. If they don’t lower well, don’t let them climb up higher than you can retrieve them safely. Most children I’ve known were afraid of being lowered until they were about 6 years old – especially if they have to back off of a ledge and weigh the rope.
  • Children being lowered must be taught to keep their hands and feet in front of them to prevent them from spinning sideways and hitting themselves. They instinctively clutch the rope instead.
  • Children bouldering around should be spotted, downclimbing is not usually intuitive to them and they may not be able to judge the distance they can safely jump down from. Watch out if they get too high!
  • If you’re read this far, someday I’ll have to tell you about lactating on ledges…

Create Your Own Family Climbing Group

I started a family climbing group at the Gunks to help families find other families to climb with. What started as a mailing list for a small group of families to communicate with each other is now a Googlegroup with over 80 families. It’s been a great way for climbers with kids to connect with other climbing families and get group outings together with kids of similar ages. I’ll have to find time to write about how I formed the group and how I administer it in another blog post…

 

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/climbing-with-kids-family-climbing/

May 15

Restaurants – An Overview

Where to Eat (and Drink) Near the Gunks

The main climbing areas of the Gunks are in the town of Gardiner, which has a small number of restaurants. Most of the “nightlife” is in the town of New Paltz, a fun and funky college town, home of the State University of New York (SUNY) at New Paltz. There are some other nearby towns with notable restaurants, like Rosendale and High Falls. It’s a good idea to know about these other towns, as on busy fall weekends, the traffic back into New Paltz can be a nightmare. This list is by no means exhaustive, but I’ve only listed places that I’ve actually gone to eat at.

Quick summary of the best choices for your needs, and my favorites:

  • Mountain Brauhaus, Gardiner – Closest to the crag, filled with climbers (especially the bar seating area), fantastic German & creative gourmet food, local ingredients, huge portions, excellent beer.
  • Gilded Otter, New Paltz – fresh micro-brews, bar scene, outdoor seating with nice view, OK food.
  • Bacchus, New Paltz – hugest selection of beer, good bar atmosphere with billards, but service is usually poor.
  • Gomen Kudasai, New Paltz – real Japanese food, like what they eat in Japan, not the usual American Japanese food. Wonderful and friendly owner.
  • Lemongrass, New Paltz – tasty Thai food.
  • McGuillicuddy’s, New Paltz – If you want to watch the game, go here for regular bar food and watch sports on multiple big TVs.
  • Taco Shack, New Paltz – it ain’t big or pretty, but you’ll get a HUGE tasty burrito here and it’s next to the beer store.
  • Rosendale Cafe, Rosendale – lots of vegan and vegetarian choices, plus live music and outdoor seating.
  • Rocco’s Pizza – New Paltz – wide variety of types of tasty pizza and yummy garlic knots.
  • Cafe Mio, Gardiner – AMAZING foods for breakfast and lunch. Specializes in local produce. Best french toast I’ve ever eaten. Decadent.
  • 32 Lunch – a basic diner/coffee shop for lunch & breakfast. Good food & service for liberals and deadheads.

See the map below if you don’t know where these towns are in relation to each other.

Map of Reviewed Restaurant Areas

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/restaurants-an-overview/

Feb 25

Land Stewardship is Like Dating, or How I Fell In Love With the Gunks

Gunks Lovers – Romancing the Stone

Cliffmama on the top of a climb at the Gunks

I love this place!

I recall someone at a Mohonk Preserve event mentioning how Gunks climbers evolve over time. In the beginning they try to cheat and get around the ranger so they don’t have to pay for a day pass. Later they understand the need to help pay to maintain the preserve so they are willing to buy a day pass. As time goes on, they feel a stronger bond with the land and a stronger responsibility to take care of it. They become members, they donate more money and volunteer.

There are many types of relationships. Those that last and that are mutually beneficial to both parties involved are those which are loving and caring relationships. They are relationships where both people are always willing to communicate, enjoy pleasing each other, and feel a strong desire to take care of each other.

I see an analogy here between lovers and our relationship with the Gunks. Some climbers are just “dating.” They want to show up, have a good time, and leave. Get as much as possible out of the encounter without having to pay or make any commitments. They may actually do harm to the environment—but not necessarily maliciously, they are just not aware of the “hurt” that they cause. It’s all about a self-centered desire for a good time.

As time goes on and they continue to climb at the Gunks, it becomes one of their favorite places to climb. They’re willing to pay the tab, and enjoy gazing at the beauty. However, they aren’t ready to commit yet. There’s a strong fondness, but not a sense of responsibility.

A large group of volunteers who came to do trail maintenance with the Gunks Climbers' Coalition at Minnewaska State Park

Gunks Climbers' Coalition Adopt-a-Crag trail maintenance volunteers

Gradually, they fall in love. They feel a responsibility towards the Gunks. They take pleasure in providing tender loving care to the land, the environment. They feel a sense of community with the others who are part of this climbing family. They communicate with the rangers, the landowners, and talk with the other land users to understand their impact on this land they love and try to find solutions on how they can lessen their impacts and improve the experience for all. Whether it be volunteering time or donating money, or even just spreading the message to others, they do what they can to help. They have fallen in love.

Let us fall in love with the Gunks and create a relationship that will stand the test of time.

And like the Janet Jackson song, your local climbing crag is singing “what have you done for me lately?”  So how have you been showing your crag some love?

♥ ♥ ♥

I originally wrote this article for publication in the 2004 Gunks Climbers’ Coalition Newsletter.  Then in 2008, I was honored to help accept the Mohonk Preserve’s Thom Scheuer Memorial Stewardship Award on behalf of the Gunks Climbers’ Coaltion at the annual New Paltz Climbing Film Festival.

The Gunks Climbers' Coalition receives Mohonk Preserve's Tom Scheuer Land Stewardship Award.

 

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/land-stewardship-gunks-love/

Feb 02

Mother climbing with toddler in a backpack sparks controversy

Climbing Mom, Menna Pritchard, Climbs With Toddler On Her Back – Big News?

This story is all over the news, apparently starting in the UK, now in the US and worldwide.  A British climbing mom, Menna Pritchard, posted a picture in her blog of her climbing with her 2 year old toddler in a baby carrier on her back. How this picture made it from her blog to international news outlets and why it’s so popular is a mystery to me. It certainly is something worthy of commentary in the climbing community especially those of us who go climbing with kids, but I guess it’s provoking outrage in the general population.  Here are some of the news articles if you weren’t aware of the story:

ABC News: Rick-Loving Mom Straps On Toddler for Cliff Climb

MSNBC Today: Crib notes: Mom goes rock-climbing while carrying toddler — confident or careless?

The West Australian: Mum defends rock climbing toddler

The SUN: Is she off her rocker? Anger at mum rock-climbing with toddler strapped to her back

CBS 5 AZ: Mom defends decision to take 2-year-old rock climbing

BBC News: Rock climbing with baby on board for Menna Pritchard and Ffion, two

Is Rock Climbing With a Baby in a Backpack a Good Idea?

I would think that most rock climbers see nothing wrong with taking your children climbing, experiencing the outdoors, sharing your passion for climbing, etc… but should we be outraged at the idea of wearing your baby on a climb?  Here’s my take on this issue:

Helmets – For Rock Climbers and Their Babies

The most obvious safety issue is that the child has no helmet. Both adults in the picture are wearing helmets, but nothing to protect the baby. If the adults think it’s important enough to wear a helmet, wouldn’t you think the same would apply to your precious child? One article says about Menna: “She also said that a helmet was not needed on the route and she wore hers only “out of habit,” a decision she now “regretted” because of how it looks.”  I’m not sure if that quote means that she doesn’t want to wear a helmet because she doesn’t like the way it looks, or because in this particular photo, the contrast of her wearing a helmet and the baby not having a helmet looked bad.  But either way, we don’t wear helmets because we’re concerned about how it looks, we wear them to protect our heads! Yeah, it’s a top roped climb, she’s not likely to fall far, and if there aren’t climbers above them, it’s unlikely they’ll experience rock fall – but why take  chance? (Update: and someone in the comments noted that someone was above them to take the picture and could easily drop gear or dislodge rocks). Other climbers interviewed said there is frequent rock fall at this particular cliff.  But a higher risk than rock fall is if the mother swings when she falls…

Taking a Swing on a Fall

So let’s say rock fall isn’t a risk in this scenario. Then why does the baby need a helmet? Well, what if the mother slips? Depending on the angle of the rock and how the anchor is positioned, there is a chance that she could swing if she falls. The rope could make her spin around, and her side or back could hit the rock. While a fall such as this on a low-angle straight route is not likely to have enough force to strike a blow to the child, note that the baby is NOT wearing a helmet. So even a casual spin that slams mom sideways into the rock could allow the child’s head to hit the rock. This is the main reason why I really want to see a helmet on that child. Even on an easy climb, there is still a risk of the mother slipping and falling, especially with a baby as big as 2 years old whose weight could shift your balance.

Are Baby Carriers Meant for Rock Climbing?

Menna Pritchard’s blog says her favorite baby carrier, which she uses when she takes her child up climbs with her is the ErgoBaby Carrier. While this looks like a nice quality made carrier, it’s not clear how secure the baby is when worn on the back. It looks like she has a lot of wiggle room in the climbing photo. Toddlers are famous for squirming. I remember carrying my baby on hikes and she would love to lean out sideways in the backpack. It doesn’t appear that the baby is wearing a climbing harness or has any way to be secured to the backpack, the mother, or the rope.  Baby carriers aren’t manufactured and tested as safety equipment for rock climbing. If a strap or buckle malfunctions, a child could fall to the ground, which is bad but probably not fatal if you’re walking on the ground. However, 40 feet up a climb, a fall would be fatal. It’s unlikely, but anyone who owns an old backpack can attest that buckles occasionally fail. I just don’t think this carrier is something I would have enough confidence in to take my child up a climb.

Cliffmama helping her kid climbing at the Gunks in 2001.

Helping my 4 year old try climbing at the Gunks

What’s the Point? Do You Need to Rock Climb With Your Toddler in a Backpack?

A child can experience the outdoors and the rock climbing scene without being put at higher risk. I’m all for bringing kids to the crag. Make sure the approach and base of the cliff is safe for a small child, make sure they wear a helmet in case of falling rock, always have an adult around who isn’t climbing or belaying to keep an eye on them, and teach them about climbing safety at an early age. I always said to my girls that they had to listen carefully to the safety rules. I would repeat them every time we went climbing when they were little, and told them if they can’t follow the safety rules, they can’t come climbing with me. When I tell them to do something because of safety, there is no argument.  As soon as my daughters could fit in a child’s body harness, I let them try to climb, even if it was just a few feet up or to dangle and swing around near the base. But they were wearing helmets and harnesses with plenty of adult supervision.

I feel it’s really not necessary to carry a 2 year old up a cliff to expose them to the experience. They won’t remember it at that age anyway! The baby can watch the climbing, can touch the rock and scramble on it with parents spotting, and even dangle on a rope if they have a harness and helmet. But really, what’s the point of carrying the baby up the climb with you? It’s just introducing more risk than necessary!

Should She Be Punished for Climbing With A Baby?

Despite Menna Pritchard’s claims of being very safety conscious, studying a degree in outdoor education, or how many years of climbing experience she has (just over a year), she still has a lot to learn. Despite my 30 years of climbing, I am always learning new things, and I’m open to hear opinions on the safest methods and equipment to enjoy our sport. I believe she really thinks what she’s doing is fine and safe enough. But when it’s the safety of your own child at stake, wouldn’t you think that a mother would want to be as safe as possible? We take risks with ourselves, but is it fair to take risks with your child? A 2 year old cannot express fear, cannot understand danger, and depends on us adults to do what’s in their best interests.

But I can’t help but feel sorry for Menna. She’s getting so much negative publicity from this one photo, and I’m sure she’s not a terrible mother, or a terrible climber. I noticed her blog has taken down the ability to comment. She must be getting a lifetime’s worth of hate mail over this. I don’t agree with some commentators who think she should have her child taken away from her or other radical measures. She’s a climber who had a baby. She wants to climb and share the experience with her child. I felt the same way – geez my blog is dedicated to the idea of climbing with kids. But I was far more cautious about it. I hope this experience will be a learning experience for her. There are many risks involved in rock climbing with a toddler on her back, and there are many ways to include your child in the experience without actually taking them up the climb with you, especially when the circumstances aren’t as safe as they could be. As with any potentially dangerous sport, we need to take the time to think about everything we do, especially when we include our children, considering every risk and hazard, and doing all we can to back things up and make them redundant and minimizing the potential for disaster.  Menna is quoted as saying “I knew 100% it was safe”. An over confident climber who has convinced themselves that climbing is perfectly safe is asking for trouble.

Please comment – I would love to hear your opinions on whether or not you would condone this scenario.

UPDATE: Read Menna Pritchard’s blog to see her response to all this press about the photo of her and her toddler climbing.

Permanent link to this article: http://cliffmama.com/blog/mother-climbing-with-toddler-controversy/

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