Dec
20

The cliff is not your driveway

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December 20, 2011

The cliff is not your driveway.

I was walking down the carriage road at the Gunks recently and came across some chalk graffiti on the cliff at the base of some popular climbs. It covered perhaps a 10 foot wide swath of rock. There were flowers, stick figures, and “I was here” type scribble – clearly drawn by children. My immediate gut reaction was dismay. What kind of parents would let their kids draw all over the cliffs in a nature preserve with sidewalk chalk? I love the natural beauty of the Gunks and believe we should leave no trace. And here was a blatant example of climbing-parent sanctioned graffiti. I would never let my children do such a thing and I felt this was the wrong way to keep your children occupied while you climb. When I talked to some friends about it, the reaction was split between “that is just WRONG” to “why worry, it will wash off”.  Well if the drawings are under an overhang they will not wash off.  This is not like a smooth blacktop driveway, totally exposed to the elements where chalk will wash off or wear off easily.  But some of the responses brought up an ethical dilemma. Almost all climbers use gymnastics chalk to improve their grip. Sweaty hands or not, it is a psychological crutch for most of us. Chalked hands leave marks all over the cliff, and in most cases it doesn’t get to wash off because of overhangs, or being embedded in various nooks and crannies of the rock. Is it wrong for children to leave sidewalk chalk marks on the cliff but OK for adults to leave climbing chalk all over the holds?

There are a couple of arguments here. One is the difference in intent. Chalked holds are a side effect of climbing. In most cases we aren’t doing it intentionally, it is just a by-product of climbing. Whereas blatant encouragement of chalk graffiti is marking up the cliff on purpose. Kids are not learning any lessons to leave no trace or even that it is not acceptable to draw all over property which is not theirs – whether it’s someone else’s driveway or a nature preserve’s cliff – OR perhaps sidewalk chalk is the gateway medium to more permanent forms of graffiti. When those kids are teenagers, will they have the land stewardship ethics to resist writing stuff like “Joe & Sue 4Ever” in marker on the rock?  The harder argument is whether climbers should be leaving chalk all over holds in the first place. If we are truly to follow leave no trace ethics, then we shouldn’t be using chalk at all, or for that matter, nests of slings for anchors. As for me, I admit I use chalk, but I try to minimize it by using a chalk ball and only when conditions warrant it. I try to set an example for my children to avoid using chalk as much as possible and definitely don’t write on the cliffs! Even when they made pretend walls of rock or other imaginary structures or collections while playing outside, I would warn them that they will have to take it apart when they’re done so it leaves no trace. We aren’t always perfect examples for leave no trace ethics, but we should try to be a good influence on our children and make them aware of minimizing the marks they leave behind.

sidewalk chalk on the cliff

A week later, some chalk still remains, despite rain since then.

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About the Gunks

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What are the Gunks?

Geography

The Gunks are located west of the Hudson River in New York State. The official name of the ridge is the Shawangunk Mountains. This ridge runs north-south from vicinity of Rosendale in the north, and Ellenville in the south.  Most of the permitted rock climbing is in the Mohonk Preserve, which is west of the town of New Paltz.

Autumn view of the Trapps Cliff, the main cliff band at the Gunks, part of the Mohonk Preserve

Trapps Cliff - Gunks

There are multiple entities which own the ridge, as well as numerous private landowners. There are 4 major entities that own much of the ridge. All of them require an entry fee to use the land.

  • From the south, Sam’s Point Preserve is owned by the Open Space Institute and managed by the Nature Conservancy. It is a beautiful place to hike, known for its once-commercial Ice Caves, dwarf pitch pine forest and Lake Maratanza.  Alas, no climbing is permitted there.
  • Beautiful Lake Minnewaska, ringed by cliffs.

    Lake Minnewaska

    Minnewaska Lake State Park Preserve is a state-owned park with more than 21,000 acres of park. It has two major lakes, Lake Minnewaska, and Lake Awosting. This park is very popular with hikers, mountain bicyclers and cross-country skiiers. Although there are miles of climbable rock here, only one small section is open to rock climbing, Peter’s Kill. Access to the top of Millbrook cliff is from Minnewaska Lake State Park Preserve.

  • The Mohonk Preserve owns most of the cliffs people think of as “The Gunks” because they allow climbing. The Near Trapps and the Trapps are the most popular cliffs for climbing, hosting hundreds of routes. Route 44/55 runs between these two cliffs. Two cliffs which are not documented in any guidebook, Lost City and Bonticou, are also popular for rock climbing and are less crowded. The Preserve has over 7,000 acres and is very popular with hikers, mountain bicyclers and cross-country skiiers.

    View of the beautiful Mohonk Mountain House Resort on Lake Mohonk.

    Mohonk Mountain House Resort

  • The Mohonk Mountain House is a private commercial resort hotel, founded in 1869, and one of the last surviving great Catskill resorts. It is a sight to behold. The iconic Skytop cliff, with its stone tower on top, is a landmark of New Paltz and the Shawangunk Ridge. Climbing is restricted to guests who use their approved guide service. You must climb with their guides to use the cliff. As you can expect with a resort of this stature, it is very expensive. Day guests pay significant day pass fees and cannot park near the hotel, although shuttle buses are offered. Guests of the nearby Mohonk Preserve can hike/bike/ski into the Mohonk Mountain House grounds from the Mohonk Preserve using their Mohonk Preserve day pass, but cannot park near the hotel, enter the hotel or climb.

Geology of the Shawangunk Ridge

The Shawangunk Conglomerate extends from High Point, New Jersey and across the Deleware Water Gap into Pennsylvania (called the Kittatinnny range), as well as south to West Virginia (North Fork Mountain and Seneca Rocks) to Alabama. Only near New Paltz and Seneca Rocks are the rocks durable enough for a major rock climbing area.

The Shawangunk Mountain’s bedrock consists of two formations: the Shawangunk Conglomerate, which makes up the cliffs so popular with rock climbers, and the Martinsburg Formation, which is mostly shale that you may see below the conglomerate. The shale was formed when layers of clay and silt accumulated at the bottom of a sea about 465 million years ago. These sediments hardened into shale. The sea water disappeared when the region was uplifted.

About 420 million years ago, a shallow sea spread across a level landscape of eroded shale. Rivers carried pebbles and quartz sand grains which were laid down as gravel layers. As this gravel was buried under piles of younger accumlations of sediment, the weight of the overlying sediments transformed the gravel layer into Shawangunk Conglomerate. This conglomerate has a natural “cement” of quartz which holds the quartz particles together, to form one of the hardest and most durable of rocks. The Shawangunk Conglomerate is very hard and resistant to weathering; whereas the underlying shale erodes relatively easily. A good place to see the dark crumbly shale formation is on Route 44/55 across the street from the scenic overlook.

A close up view of the Shawangunk Conglomerate rock that makes up the Gunks

Shawangunk Conglomerate of the Gunks, close-up

About 350 million years ago, a collision between the African and North American tectonic plates of the earth’s crust created an uplift that deformed and raised the Shawangunk Mountains, causing extensive folding and faulting.

Millions of years of erosion have worn down the upper layers of limestones and shales which dissolved and crumbled more easily than the quartz conglomerate, leaving the Shawangunk Conglomerate exposed as the top layer. When the glaciers came through during the ice ages, the ice ground across the ridge, removing the ancient soils, exposing the bedrock surfaces, carving grooves and striations on the bedrock by pebbles and boulders imbedded in the overriding ice, and leaving occasional erratics – boulders left as the ice melted away. Once the rocks age and become hard and brittle, crustal movements can cause them to break along cracks or joints. Water freezing within these joints over time creates a wedging action that creates blocks that move apart and sometimes fall off the cliff. These cracks enable the plethora of excellent climbing routes on the cliff face.

Drawing of the cross section of the Gunks cliff, showing the geology.

Cross section of the Trapps Ridge, Gunks

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Getting to the Gunks

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Getting to the Gunks – Travel Information

Packing the car with too much stuff for a climbing trip to the New River Gorge

Too much stuff!

A Word About Communications

Before you plan your trip, if you have to meet up with people or call a cab, note that the cell phone service is spotty and unreliable once you get behind the cliffs. That includes the West Trapps parking lot, Minnewaska State Park Preserve, and Peter’s Kill climbing area. Your mileage may vary based on your phone and carrier. Many establishments in downtown New Paltz have wi-fi available, including CafeTeria (a chill hangout spot with coffee, couches) and Starbucks. Last time I checked, I also got wi-fi at the Mohonk Preserve Visitor’s Center and Joanie’s Bistro Mountain Store (“the Deli”) at the intersection of Rt. 299 and Rt. 44-55.

Where to Get Good Beta

If you want beta on climbing at the Gunks, your best bet is to visit Rock and Snow, the local climbing ship in downtown New Paltz (44 Main Street). They are staffed with climbers who really know the area and really know the Gunks. Also check out their events. During the climbing season, they often have excellent free slideshows and presentations by well-known and respected climbers. While you’re there, buy something. These guys contribute gear and money to just about every fundraising event in the area. They really support the climbing community. They have truly earned our business.

On your way to the Gunks, at the main intersection of Rt. 299 where it ends at Rt. 44/55, you’ll see a deli across the street called the Bistro Mountain Store (3124 Route 44/55, Gardiner, NY 845-255-2999). This is THE pre-climbing hangout spot for climbers. Sit at the picnic tables, eat from their selection of yummy breakfast wraps, buy your lunch, have a hot cup of coffee. There’s a small EMS store next to the deli as well. Need a partner? Need information? Most of the friendly folk hanging out on the deli’s deck are probably climbers and can help you out.

By Air

The closest airport to the Gunks is Stewart Airport in Newburgh, NY (SWF). Only problem is that not a lot of airlines fly there. Somewhat equidistant would be either Albany, NY (ALB) to the north, or Newark, NJ (EWR) to the south – both of them about a 1 1/2 hour drive to the Gunks. Newark gets a lot of air traffic and probably would get you lower airfares since it’s a hub. The other New York City airports, John F. Kennedy in Brooklyn (JFK) or LaGuardia in Queens (LGA) aren’t much further than Newark but Newark airport allows you to avoid New York City (and its traffic) altogether when you drive from there to the Gunks.

By CarMy kids in the truck of the car, smiling and having fun.

The Gunks are relatively easy to get to.  Take the New York State Thruway to exit 18, New Paltz. After paying toll, make a left onto Rt. 299 west. You will drive through the town of New Paltz, cross over a bridge over the Wallkill River, and drive past farmlands and apple orchards. When Rt. 299 ends at a “T”, make a right onto Rt. 44/55 West (that’s two different highways that run together for a while).  It’s about 30 minutes drive from the Thruway exit to the Gunks. Below are the major places of entry you may be interested in if you are climbing here.

First, a Word about the Parking Situation

The Gunks are a very popular destination for all sorts of recreation, and it’s only 1.5 hours from a major metropolitan area. In other words, it gets a lot of visitors. On nice weather weekends, especially in the fall, the parking lots fill up FAST. How fast? Most decent weekends probably by 9:30am. On nice fall weekends, by 8:15am! So a few words of advice. First of all, get here early if you want a parking spot. If you are meeting friends, why not bring less cars to the parking lot so there is room for more? If you know it’s a busy weekend, park extra cars in the empty lot diagonally across the street from the Mountain Bistro Store (“the deli”) at the corner of Rt. 299 and Rt. 44/55. Just bring one car to the parking lot. When you get to the parking lot, park close to the next car so you don’t waste space.

Mohonk Preserve Visitor’s Center

The Mohonk Preserve visitor’s center is 1/2 mile on the right. Here you can get day passes, trail maps, as well as take advantage of their nice bathrooms and informational displays. Occasionally they hosts events in their beautiful building, and there is a large diorama of the Mohonk Preserve and its cliffs in the middle of the room. They have a large parking lot that can actually fill up on busy fall weekend days. It’s a pretty long walk to the crag from here and is a “last hope” if you want to get a spot within walking distance to the crag.

Warwarsing “Stairmaster” Parking Lot

After the Visitor’s Center on your right is the Warwarsing Parking lot, also known as the “Stairmaster” lot for the steep trail steps leading up from the parking lot to the main carriage road under the Trapps cliff. Turn left into the lot for the closest spots to the trailhead. On busy days, the Warwarsing lot fills up in the lot to the right and in subsequent lots below that.  This lot is appropriate if you want to climb on the Trapps Cliff of the Mohonk Preserve from the climb “Shockley’s Ceiling” and beyond to the north. It is an example of some impressive trail building and consists of many large stone steps that wind their way up to the carriage road known as Undercliff Road. On most busy days, a ranger may be in the lot at the start of the trail to collect day fees. This lot is the second to fill up on busy weekend days.

West Trapps Parking Lot

Welcome Boulder at top of West Trapps Parking Lot, intersection of Overcliff and Undercliff Roads - Trapps, Gunks

Welcome Boulder, Trapps

The West Trapps lot is probably the largest and most popular parking lot for Gunks climbing and other Mohonk Preserve visitors. There is a ranger booth at the entrance of the lot to collect day fees. There is also a nice bathroom with pit toilets in the lot. On busy weekend days this lot fills up quickly. On a beautiful fall weekend, I’ve seen it completely full by 8:15am. There are a few spots by the entrance marked off by traffic cones. These are reserved for Mohonk Preserve members when the lot is almost full. The trailhead for the climbing is at the far end of the parking lot, off of the small cul de sac. This trail, the West Trapps Connector Trail, takes you back up to the road where there is a steel bridge spanning Route 44/55. There are trash bins and outhouses here as well. If you cross the highway here (be careful!) and walk to the left, you’ll find the trail to the Near Trapps cliff just before the scenic overlook parking lot. However, if you stay on this side of the highway and walk up the stairs to the carriage road, you’ll see the steel bridge on your right, and a large boulder in the trail intersection on your left. This is often referred to as the “Welcome boulder”. Turn left from the stairs, straight past the Welcome boulder and towards the view of the valley onto Undercliff Road to take you to the start of the Trapps cliff.

Note: The parking lot at the scenic overlook is patrolled and you may get ticketed if you are parked there for more than 30 minutes, especially on busy weekends.

Waterfall at the Split Rock Swimming Hole in the Mohonk Preserve.

Split Rock

Coxing Parking Lot (Split Rock)

The Coxing parking lot is a bit far for climbing at the Trapps or Near Trapps, but this is the appropriate parking lot if you are climbing at Lost City. It’s also the same parking lot for the popular Split Rock swimming hole. On nice summer weekend days, this lot easily fills up with people who want to picnic and swim by the falls. On busy fall weekends, it’s a lot of last resort for those willing to hike from there to the Trapps, or to climb at Lost City. There is a red blazed trail from the parking lot called Shongum Path, which will take you to the Connector Trail off of the West Trapps parking lot in around 15-20 minutes.

Peter’s Kill Parking Lot

This lot is only for the Peter’s Kill climbing area and is part of the Minnewaska Lake State Park Preserve. To get there, continue on Rt. 44/55 west past the steel bridge and the West Trapps parking lot, past Clove Road, past Trapps Road, and then look for the Peter’s Kill entrance of Minnewaska on the right. There is a booth at the entrance of the lot to register you to climb there. If it’s your first time there for that year, you’ll need to sign a liability waiver. You’ll pay your entrance fee and put your name on the list of climbers for that day. They limit the number of climbing permits for each day, but I’ve yet to see them totally fill up. On only the most crazy busiest days in the fall do they have the chance to fill up, especially when climbers find all the Mohonk Preserve parking lots full.

Minnewaska State Park Preserve Parking Lot

Shortly past the Peter’s Kill Parking lot on the left side of Rt. 44/55 west is the main entrance to Minnewaska State Park. It is very popular with hikers and bicyclist and not as many climbers. But it is the closest access point to the Millbrook Cliff, the wildest and most remote of the Gunks cliffs accessible for climbing. There are multiple ways to get to Millbrook, which involve a long hike on trails from the Steel bridge of the Mohonk Preserve, or taking a winding carriage road from the main parking lot of Minnewaska State Park, or a trail from the far trip of Lake Minnewaska – all of them requiring from 45 minutes to 1 hour 45 minutes approach time. Best to consult the guidebook and a trail map to find the best way for you. Millbrook requires rappelling down from the top and climbing up.

Mohonk Mountain House Parking

If you have arrangements with the Mohonk Mountain House Resort to climb with a guide at Skytop, you will be allowed to park at the hotel instead of the parking lot at the entrance gate. You’ll have to stop at the entry building where they will ask you what you’re there for and direct you accordingly. To get to the Mohonk Mountain House from the town of New Paltz, turn right onto Springtown Road very soon after leaving town on the bridge over the Wallkill River. After driving past a farm field for 1/4 mile, the road will split. Springtown Road goes right, and Mountain Rest Road goes left. Bear left onto Mountain Rest Road and follow it and the Mohonk signs to their Gatehouse building on the left.

By Train

The closest commuter train station to the Gunks is in Poughkeepsie, on the east side of the Hudson River. Metro North (800-638-7646) runs regularly from Grand Central Station, NY to Poughkeepsie and back. Amtrak (800-872-7245) leaves from Penn Station in NYC and also stops in Poughkeepsie on their Ethan Allen Express, Empire Service, Maple Leaf and Adirondack routes. From Poughkeepsie by car, it’s about 20 minutes to New Paltz, or 30 minutes to the Gunks (of course, depends on if you take a bus that has a number of stops in between).  You can grab a taxi cab waiting at the station, or use the UCAT bus service (Ulster County Area Transit ) which links communities in Ulster County to the Poughkeepsie train station. The closest you can get dropped off is in the town of New Paltz, where you’ll need a taxi or hitch a ride to the Gunks.

By Bus

Adirondack Trailways buses (845-255-6520 or 800-858-8555) stop in downtown New Paltz at the corner of Main and Prospect Streets, as well as the park and ride lot near the Thruway exit. It’s a pretty comfy ride from New York City.  Ulster County Area Transit  or UCAT bus service (845-340-3333) also stops in downtown New Paltz from Poughkeepsie and other towns in Ulster County. Buses don’t get any closer to the cliffs than this.  It’s another 15-20 minutes from the bus station in New Paltz to the Mohonk Preserve’s Visitor’s Center. So plan to meet up with friends to give you a ride to the cliffs, get a taxi cab, or hitch a ride. One thing to consider if you take a cab is that cell phone signals are unreliable on the back side of the cliffs, which is where the West Trapps parking lot is. Stay in front of the cliffs for better reception.

Hitchhiking

One alternative to get to the cliffs from downtown New Paltz is hitchhiking. This area is usually safe, but I can’t guarantee anything. If you walk to the outskirts of New Paltz, just over the Wallkill bridge, with your climbing gear showing, you’ll probably have a decent chance of catching a ride with fellow climbers.

Taxicabs

I don’t know these services personally, just saw them listed as taxi services in New Paltz: Glenn Stagecoach Lines: 845-255-1550, and Joey’s Taxi: 845-255-8294

Carpool Searching

If you’re coming up from New York City, I recommend carpooling. Try posting on Gunks.com‘s bulletin boards, or check out some of the area Meetup Groups that are focused on Rock Climbing. I know one of the Meetup groups has an ongoing carpool “trip” every Sunday to the Gunks for whomever wants to carpool together.

 

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Climbing at the Gunks

Categories:

Gunks Climbing – Where to Park & Basic Information

Cliffmama climbing the very exposed top pitch of CCK (Cascading Crystal Kaleidoscope) - Trapps, Gunks

Cliffmama on the classic CCK (5.8) - Trapps, Gunks

Hazards

Theft at the Gunks is rare, but has been known to occur. Cars rarely but occasionally are broken into. Gear accidentally left lying around can disappear. However, everyone seems comfortable leaving their packs at the base of multipitch climbs, returning later to find everything just as they left it.

There is quite a bit of poison ivy, mostly on the sides of the trails, but not on the climbs. Familiarize yourself with what it looks like and keep away!

The late spring brings the bugs. Bring bug repellent!  The black flies will chomp on you, leaving desperately itchy welts with bleeding centers all over you. Then the mosquitoes will eat you alive, especially around dusk. Check yourself for tick bites, especially if you have been walking in tall grassy areas. The larger ones tend to be harmless but the ones you can barely see are the ones which can carry lyme disease. Know the symptoms of lyme and get tested and treated as soon as possible if you suspect it. In the summer, the chiggers quietly burrow into your flesh as you sit on ledges. A day or so later, you find yourself frantically scratching places that are moist or where clothing is tight. Therefore, you have to discreetly tear at your crotch or have the elastic on your underwear cause unbearable itching. Avoid wearing shorts if you can.

You’re likely to see snakes at the Gunks – don’t worry about the harmless black ones, but beware of copperheads – they are common at the Gunks. They’re shy for the most part, but they often blend into the leaves and camouflage well. Their venom is poisonous and you should seek medical attention immediately if you’re bitten. The baby ones are the most dangerous because they cannot control the amount of venom they disperse. Rattlesnakes do exist in the Gunks but they are so rare you’re not likely to ever see one. Once I did see a black bear stroll past us at the Trapps, but sightings of bears are rare as well.

Mohonk Preserve

The Mohonk Preserve is a private non-profit nature preserve which allows rock climbing on its lands. The most popular Gunks climbing areas, the Trapps, and the Near Trapps, are on Mohonk Preserve land. There is a strong trad climbing ethic at the Gunks. Pre-existing pitons and bolts can be replaced, but no new fixed hardware is allowed. There are some bolted chain anchors for rappelling on popular routes that were placed by the preserve to protect the trees. Many climbs will have either chains or slung trees for rappelling off each pitch – but be cautious and check the quality of the bolts and nests of slings before you trust your life to them.  There are multiple parking lots and trailheads and a nice Visitor’s Center. Dogs must be kept on a leash and not left unattended.

COST: Day fees for climbing or mountain biking are $17 per person and $12 for hikers (as of 2011, check website to be sure). Children 12 and under free with adult. If you come here often, seriously consider buying a year membership or even a life membership. And try not to complain. The Mohonk Preserve relies on day fees, membership dues, grants and endowments. They have a lot of land to manage, miles of trails and carriage roads to maintain and monitor and you’ll find the rangers and staff among the nicest folks you’ll have to deal with. They are far less restrictive than the state parks, and they welcome climbers. Oh, and if you get hurt, they are highly trained in how to rescue your sorry ass. So cough up the fee and realize how much more you’re getting for your money than at the local indoor climbing gym.
WEBSITE: http://mohonkpreserve.org
PHONE: (845) 255-0919
PARKING: Multiple lots. See my Getting there section, or view their map.

The Trapps

View of the Trapps Cliff in autumn, the most popular cliff for climbing at the Gunks

Trapps Cliff - Gunks

Parking: West Trapps lot for the left side of the cliff, Warwarsing (“Stairmaster”) lot for the right side of the cliff. Not a huge difference, so either lot will do if needed.
Facilities: Large pit toilet building in the West Trapps parking lot, porta-potties below the steel bridge over Rt. 44/55, and another pit toilet building on the carriage road in the “Uberfall” area. Occasional water from a pipe in the Uberfall area, but frequently dry (not reliable).
Approach: Depends on which parking lot you parked in:
1) From the far end of the West Trapps parking lot (at the circle), take the West Trapps Conector trail to the steel bridge, pass the port-a-potties, and up the steps to the carriage road. Turning left at the top of the steps, pass the large “welcome boulder” in the intersection and continue straight towards the view of the valley along the carriage road called “Undercliff Road”. This will bring you to the far (climber’s) left start of the Trapps.
2) If you park in the Warwarsing lot, walk towards the end of the parking lot in the direction you’d be driving to continue uphill and to the hairpin turn. Take the staircase at the end of the parking lot to a trail with steep rock steps (thus called the “stairmaster”) to “Undercliff Road” at the area of the cliffs above the hairpin turn on Rt. 44/55 at the climb “Shockley’s Ceiling”.
The entire length of the cliff is paralleled by a carriage road called Undercliff Road. There are approach trails with yellow blazes at frequent intervals that will bring you to the base of the climbs.
Guidebook: Best one by far is “The Climber’s Guide to the Shawangunks – The Trapps” by Dick Williams, 2004. Also known as the “grey dick”. The most thorough climbing guidebook you’ll ever see. Details of every pitch, length, rating, protection. Second place is “The Gunks Guide” by Todd Swain, but it’s not the most current. Stay away from “The Gunks” by  Zach Orenczak & Rachael Lynn. Pretty pictures, but otherwise inconsistent ratings, inaccurate information, inflated grades.
Climbing: All trad climbing, some climbs on the far left end can be top-roped without leading. Huge variety of climbs and grades, most climbs are 2-3 pitches. The best place in the world to trad lead really easy spectacular high quality climbs with exposure. Where else can you get many climbs with 3 pitches of 5.3 climbing with jaw-dropping exposure and overhangs!?!? The cliff has a large ledge that runs across it called the “Grand Traverse Ledge”, mostly known as the “GT ledge”. Most people rap off of chained anchors or slung trees, but there is an unmarked trail along the top to hike back to the left side of the cliff where a short and easy downclimb will take you back to the carriage road. Note that this is the busiest climbing area at the Gunks, and on nice weekends, especially in the fall, it can be a total zoo.
The Uberfall: To the right of the climb “Jacob’s Ladder” is a broken section of cliff that is an easy descent route or ascent to set up top ropes. It is referred to as the Uberfall descent. But since that area of the cliff is so popular the whole general area is often referred to as the Uberfall.  You’ll find many people hanging out, often the ranger truck is parked there to sell day passes, there’s an information kiosk and a big pit toilet building there. People will be sitting around or bouldering while waiting for their partners, or just standing around watching others climb some of the classics in the area.
My Favorite Climb: While the crowds flock to the classic “High Exposure”, my favorite is another 5.6 classic, “Madame Grunnebaum’s Wulst”, also known as “Madame G’s”. The upper pitches are a joyous overhanging orange wall of steep jugs with comfortable stances to place lots of gear. So much fun!

The Near Trapps

View of the Near Trapps cliff at the Gunks in autumn colors.

Near Trapps cliff - Gunks

Parking: West Trapps lot
Approach: from the far end of the parking lot where the circle is, take the West Trapps Connector trail to the base of the steel bridge and Route 44/55. There are porta-potties here. Cross Rt. 44/55 carefully (speeding cars suddenly appear from beyond the road curves) and head left towards the scenic overlook. Just before the scenic overlook parking lot railing is an unmarked trail going right. It parallels the base of the Near Trapps cliff.
Access: The base of the Near Trapps is owned by a mixture of private landowners as well as the Mohonk Preserve. One landowner has closed their land off and marked it as private property, no trespassing.  The posted signs start at the area of the climb “Eenie Meenie” and continue to the climb “Nazgul.” Climbers who wish to access climbs south of “Nazgul” will need to take the blue blazed Millbrook Ridge Trail on the top of the Near Trapps and either rappel in south of “Nazgul” or proceed on the Millbrook Ridge Trail south to the intersection with the Bayard’s Path, then travel east through Smede’s cove to the southern end of the climbers trail at the base of the Near Trapps.
Guidebook: Best one by far is “The Climber’s Guide to the Shawangunks – The Near Trapps - Millbrook” by Dick Williams, 2008.  The most thorough climbing guidebook you’ll ever see. Details of every pitch, length, rating, protection. Second option is “The Gunks Guide” by Todd Swain, but it’s not the most current and certainly not as thorough.
Climbing: The nature of the Near Trapps, with its many roofs on the top pitches makes it unsuitable for setting up any top ropes without requiring leading. There are excellent routes of all grades here, all require trad leading. Many climbs have bolted chain anchors or nests of slings on trees for rappel. There is also an easy descent trail you can hike down that takes you close to the start of the cliffs. Note that while the first pitches of most of the climbs are fine, most of the upper pitches around the center of the Near Trapps have lots of loose rock and are not recommended. The best quality climbs are at either ends of the cliff band. The “Nears” tend to be a little less crowded than the Trapps, but are still definitely the 2nd most busy cliffs at the Gunks.
My Favorite Climb: The popular classic is “Disneyland” (5.6) but for me, ”Birdland” (5.8) is my most favorite. The lower pitch is tricky thin face moves with a very thoughtful crux. The upper pitch is steep overhanging  jugs with great gear. A terrific mix of techniques in one excellent climb.

Millbrook

View of the Millbrook Cliff, the highest cliff at the Gunks

Millbrook Cliff - Gunks

 

Parking/Approaches: There are multiple options on how to approach Millbrook. One way is to park at the West Trapps parking lot of the Mohonk Preserve, and take the carriage road called Trapps Road to the Coxing Trail (blue blazes). Pass by the first intersection with red blazes (Millbrook Cross Trail) and make a left at the following intersection with red blazes (Millbrook Mountain Trail). This trail takes you to the Westward Ha! rappel tree. The second method is to park at the main lot of Minnewaska Lake State Park Preserve, hike past the lake to the red Millbrook Mountain Trail until it ends at the Millbrook cliff and Westward Ha! rappel tree. The third method, which works well on a mountain bike, is to also park at the main lot of Minnewaska Lake State Park, take the red carriage road on the southwest side of Lake Minnewaska to the Yellow carriageway. Take the left fork onto the Millbrook Mountain Carriageway (you have no choice if you’re on a bike because the right fork onto the Hamilton Point Carriageway doesn’t allow bicycles). The Millbrook Mountain Carriageway ends at a small cul de sac, also near the Westward Ha! rappel tree. Note that this third route is much longer than the other ways, but because it follows carriage roads the entire way, it is the only approach you can make entirely by bicycle.
Guidebook: Best one  is “The Climber’s Guide to the Shawangunks – The Near Trapps - Millbrook” by Dick Williams, 2008.  Details of every pitch, length, rating, protection. Second option is “The Gunks Guide” by Todd Swain.
Climbing: Millbrook is the most remote of the big cliffs here, requiring a longer approach and seeing less traffic. This also means if you get hurt, it will be much more difficult to get help. About 1/3 of the way up there is a large ledge system referred to as the “Great Traverse Ledge”. The rock below this ledge is loose and poor quality. Therefore, climbers rappel down from the top to the ledge to start their climbs, therefore bypassing the 1st third of the cliff. The most popular descent is to rap off of a large pine tree at the top of “Westward Ha!” (165 feet). Since I have not climbed here myself, I will leave the rest of the details to the guidebooks.

Bonticou

Deep blue sky in the background as Cliffmama climbs on Bonticou Crag at the Gunks

Bonticou Crag - Gunks

Parking: Spring Farm Road parking lot, off of Upper 27 Knolls Road.
Facilities: Pit toilet building in Spring Farm parking lot.
Approach: Hike the red Bonticou Crag Trail to a 5 way intersection with Bonticou Road and Cedar Drive. Take Bonticou Road sort of straight across (the 2nd left trail). Take the yellow trail straight up the talus boulders to the cliff face. (Note: this is a very popular hike and affords spectacular views). The yellow trail will take you all the way to the top if you want to set top rope anchors.
Guidebook: Routes at Bonticou are not to be documented, thus there are no guidebooks. Please respect this decision.
Climbing:  There are a number of easy routes in the vicinity of the yellow trail which you can trad lead or toprope. Enjoy the adventure of picking a climb and seeing how it goes. The rock here is beautiful white and great positive friction and edges. A spectacular spot to climb.

Lost City

View of the Lost City band of cliffs surrounded by autumn leaves at the Gunks

Lost City - Gunks

Parking: Coxing parking lot, next to the Split Rock Swimming hole.
Facilities: Pit toilet building in Coxing parking lot.
Approach: From the parking lot kiosk, take the High Peters Kill Trail (blue) to where it splits. You can see the cliffs from here and can go either way.
Guidebook: Routes are not to be documented, therefore, no guidebook. Please respect this decision. Climbers there will be happy to provide route beta.
Climbing:   Most routes are hard, in the 5.11 range and up, although some moderate routes do exist there. Trad leading or top roping only. Enjoy the adventure of picking a climb and seeing how it goes. There are lots of talus caves and shady places here which keeps it cool on hot days.

Minnewaska Lake State Park Preserve

Minnewaska Lake was once a resort with two hotels, owned by the brother of the Mohonk Mountain House owner. The hotels burned down, the land was acquired by the state and is now a State Park with “Preserve” designation, which means the nature preserve aspect of the park is a higher priority than the recreation aspect. Therefore, climbing is prohibited everywhere in the park except for the Peter’s Kill area. Note that the Dickie Barre cliff’s flora and fauna are currently being surveyed by the Gunks Climbers’ Coalition and work is being done to prepare for opening it to climbing. Being a New York State Park means that changes have to go through state government bureaucracy, so progress is slow.

COST: For use of the park as a non-climbing visitor, it’s $8 per car, and the Empire Passport is accepted since it’s a New York State Park. However, to climb at Peter’s Kill, instead of the per-car park fee, you will pay a $7 per person fee and be required to sign a waiver. There is a limit to how many climber’s permits they issue per day, but it is unusual for them to run out.
HOURS: The park opens at 9am, and note the closing time that they post. They are VERY strict about making sure everyone is out of the parking lot by closing time. You will get ticketed if you’re still there, possibly yelled at, threatened with arrest, or locked in the parking lot.
DOGS: Dogs must be on a leash not more than 6 feet. Not allowed in buildings, camping, picnic or bathing areas or on walkways.
WEBSITE: http://www.nysparks.com/parks/127/details.aspx
PHONE: (845) 255-0752

Peter’s Kill

Marcy climbing inside the beautiful corner of "Golden Dream", 5.9+ at Peter's Kill, Minnewaska State Park Preserve

Golden Dream, 5.9+ at Peter's Kill, Minnewaska

Parking: Peter’s Kill lot on the right (north) side of Rt. 44/55 going west. Part of Minnewaska Lake State Park Preserve.
Facilities: Nice bathrooms with composting toilets and a sink. Pack out your own garbage. Park office located in the same building.
Approach: Very short. Park car, walk either to the right or the left, depending on which climbs you’re doing. There should be a map of the climbing area available next to the bathrooms.
Guidebook: The only guidebook is “Peter’s Kill Climbing Guide” by Robert Wilson, 2002. It’s small, minimal and out of date, but good enough. It may be getting hard to find – try Rock and Snow or the EMS in Gardiner next to the deli (intersection of Rt. 44/55 and Rt. 299).
Climbing: Peter’s Kill is an excellent place for top-roping. There’s easy trail access to the top of the cliff and bolts at the top of some of the climbs. Note that the bolts have no chains so you need to bring your own draws and biners to set up top rope anchors. Also, if you build your own anchor, you are not allowed to use the pine trees at the top of the cliff, the pitch pines are part of a delicate ecosystem and are protected in Minnewaska. All the climbs are 1 pitch. There’s a good mix of very easy climbs and harder climbs up to 5.12.  There’s also excellent bouldering here. Peter’s Kill tends to be less crowded than the Trapps and Near Trapps, and is a good alternative on crowded weekends or when you have a group. Also, since the approaches and the base of the cliff are flat for most of the climbs (except on the far (climber’s) right side of the cliff), it’s a better crag if you have to bring young children.
My Favorite Climb: OMG. “Golden Dream” (5.9+). What a FANTASTIC climb! If this were in the Trapps, there’d be a constant line waiting for it. Perfect crack in a corner. Hand jams with delicate stemming on thin faces. Beautiful moves, and the crack eats nuts. (See the picture above for a picture of a climber on Golden Dream).

View of the beautiful Mohonk Mountain House Resort on Lake Mohonk.

Mohonk Mountain House Resort

Mohonk Mountain House Resort

The Mohonk Mountain House is a privately owned commercial resort hotel. It’s historic, it’s magnificent, and it’s REALLY expensive. They own the Skytop cliff which was once open to climbers, then it was totally closed, but now it’s open only to guests with their approved guiding service.

COST: Expensive! First you must be a guest of the resort – either overnight, at the spa, or for a meal. Then you are only allowed to climb if you use their approved guide service, Alpine Endeavors. Now these guides are terrific, but having the privilege to climb at Skytop comes at a steep price. See the website link below for guide rates.
WEBSITE: http://www.mohonk.com/recreation/rock_climbing.cfm
PHONE: 845-255-1000

Photo of Skytop cliff in beautiful autumn colors against a green field and blue skies.

Skytop Cliff - Gunks

Skytop

Parking: Well, since you have to be a guest of the hotel to climb at Skytop, you’ll be parking at the hotel parking lots.
Facilities: Saying they have bathrooms is an understatement. This is a world-class luxury resort hotel and restaurant. Every guest room has a balcony and fireplace. The spa has an enormous swimming pool and is very relaxing. Jackets are required at dinner.
Approach:  Hike up talus slope to the base of climbs.
Guidebook: Because Skytop was closed for many years, the 1991 “black Dick” collection of guidebooks had the latest Skytop guide by Dick Williams. Todd Swain’s ”The Gunks Guide“, published in 1998 (3rd edition), also contains a section on Skytop. Although more recent, it isn’t as detailed. Since you will be guided, you shouldn’t need a guidebook anyway.
Climbing: The climbing community was devastated when the Mohonk Mountain House closed Skytop to climbing. There were so many classics here, including the legendary “Foops”, which were now off limits. Only recently has climbing been permitted again, but only through a guiding service. The cliff is up high above the talus slope and the valley and although not the tallest cliff, it certainly feels like you’re high off the ground! Most climbs are one or two pitches.
My Favorite Climb: I was new to climbing 5.8 when I first followed “Sound and Fury”. Tricky moves on parallel cracks at the bottom led to insane overhanging jugs at the top. It was the first time I ever did a free-swinging ape-man move on overhangs, and it was frightening and wonderfully exciting at the same time. That was a very long time ago and I’ve often wondered how the climb would feel again after an additional 20-25 years of climbing under my belt. I do hope someday I will get to climb it again without having to pay a fortune to experience it.

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Restaurants in High Falls

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Restaurants in High Falls

The little hamlet of High Falls is west of Rosendale on Rt. 213 going west. It can also be reached from Mohonk Road past the Mohonk Mountain House. Here are some of the restaurants worth eating at in High Falls, plus there’s some good antique stores and an excellent flea market May through October on Sunday mornings. There are historic remnants of the D&H Canal and locks in town as well.

Map of High Falls, NY with restaurants reviewed on cliffmama.com highlighted.

Restaurants in High Falls, NY

The Egg’s Nest Restaurant

1300 New York 213, High Falls, NY 12440 – (845) 687-7255
What an eclectic restaurant this is – food-wise and decor-wise. You can’t miss it in town, it’s painted in all sorts of colors and is covered in decorations. If you’re out to eat with kids, this is the best restaurant to play “I Spy” in because every inch of the place is either covered in paintings or has some sort of crazy item displayed on it. They have an excellent selection of vegetarian foods as well as non-veggies, quesadillas, salads, soups, sandwiches, “pray-sue”, pasta, children’s menu as well as a bar. The food is prepared in ways you don’t usually see and is usually tasty. Worth a visit.

High Falls Cafe

1219 State Rt. 213 and Mohonk Rd., High Falls, NY 12440 – (845) 687-2699 – closed Mondays
I’ve only eaten here a couple of times, but I thought the place was good with a nice casual feel. They serve basic American food for dinner – such as burgers, sandwiches, salads, pasta, as well as a breakfast and lunch menu. There’s also a kids’ menu. There’s a bar and a happy hour. Check their events calendar for their many live music events.

Northern Spy Cafe

Rt. 213 and Old Rt. 213, High Falls, NY 12440 – (845) 687-7298 – Closed Mondays
I’ve eaten here for dinner a handful of times, with mixed results. A couple of times I absolutely loved it, so I brought my husband here and then the food was mediocre. It’s a nice place, tucked away from the road up a hill. The best thing on the menu is their tofu wings appetizers. You can get them as “Free Range Tofu Wings” with blue cheese and celery, or even better, Sesame Tofu Wings w/ Mung Bean-Cucumber Salad & Sweet Chili Sauce. They also have wine.

 

 

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Restaurants in Rosendale and Tillson

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Restaurants in Rosendale and Tillson

The charming small downtown area of Rosendale, NY. Photo by http://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/User:Daniel_Case

Rosendale, NY

An alternative to the crowds in New Paltz is the cute little town of Rosendale. The New York Times seems to think it’s the next hippest thing, but it’s just a quiet little town along the river. Most straightforward way to get there from the Gunks is to go back towards New Paltz and take Rt. 32 north. If there’s traffic going into New Paltz (which is always the case during busy fall weekends), there are other back ways to get there (follow along with your map): Rt. 299 east, left on Butterville Road which turns into Canaan Road, take right fork onto Dug Road, which ends and you make a left onto Springtown Road (county rt. 7). Make a right onto Tillson Road, then a left onto Rt. 32 north.  Got that?

 

 

Map of Roads from the Gunks to Rosendale

Map with the best route highlighted from the Gunks to the towns of Tillson and Rosendale, NY, to the north.

Directions from the Gunks to Rosendale

 

Rosendale Restaurant Reviews

Red Brick Tavern

388 Main St, Rosendale, NY – (845) 658-8500 – Closed Tuesday Casual atmosphere, decent American food, good value. Can get busy, reservations recommended. Has a pool table and decent beer.

Rosendale Cafe

434 Main St, Rosendale, NY – (845) 658-9048 Nice selection of vegetarian food in a funky cafe adorned with local artists’ work. A few small tables outside too.  My favorite is the Mushroom Tofu Stroganoff. They often have live music there, singer-songwriter Tuesdays, Celtic music sessions and more.

32 Lunch

Rosendale Shopping Plaza, Rt. 32, Rosendale, NY 12472 – (845) 658-9191 - Facebook page. There isn’t anything fancy about 32 Lunch. It’s in a run-down shopping plaza with an unimposing name. Inside are two people working their asses off to bring you fast service and tasty breakfast and lunch. This luncheonette had far more character during the George Bush years, with anti-Bush posters and signs everywhere and Grateful Dead stickers on most surfaces. They redecorated and removed all the anti-Bush and hippie stuff, but you still may hear the Dead playing on the speakers or see a random steal-your-face sticker. My friend from NJ barely eats there more than twice a year but the waitress remembers him and what he orders and how he likes his coffee and toast. It’s pretty amazing. It’s a small 2 person local operation that deserves the business. Pay them a visit -especially if you’re already camping at Creekview Campground in Rosendale. Oh, and while you’re in that shopping plaza, buy something at the liquor store there. Ask to have the little white dog serve you at the counter and pay by credit card. Really. It’s worth it for the adorable entertainment.

The Big Cheese

402 Main St., Rosendale, NY 12472 – (845) 658-7175 This eclectic little cheese shop is worth a visit. They have an excellent variety of cheeses, and small food items such as panini sandwiches, roasted artichokes, spinach rolls and salads.  There are a couple of tables inside to sit at. The interesting thing about this store is the back half of it is a thrift shop. So you can browse the racks of clothing, books or assorted junk while you wait for your lunch.

Toad Holly Pub

713 Route 32, Tillson, NY- (845) 658-2097 On your way up Rt. 32 going north from New Paltz to New Paltz, you’ll pass through Tillson. You’ll find this restaurant on your left. It’s pretty new, and I’ve only been there once. Wasn’t very impressed with the food or service, but I’ll update this review when I have more dining experiences here.

 

Map of Restaurants in Rosendale

Map of Rosendale, NY, with restaurants that I've reviewed highlighted.

Rosendale Restaurants

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Restaurants in Gardiner

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Restaurants in Gardiner

The main climbing areas of the Gunks are in the town of Gardiner, which has a small number of restaurants. While there are a couple of eateries near the intersection of Rt. 299 and Rt. 44-55, most of the other places are closer to the village of Gardiner, which is further west (away from the Gunks) on Rt. 44-55. So when you leave the Gunks, keep going downhill on Rt. 44-55, past Rt. 299 and the deli, heading south and west towards the village of Gardiner.

Map of Gardiner, NY, near the Gunks, with restaurants highlighted.

Restaurants in Gardiner, NY

 

Mountain Brauhaus

3123 Route 44/55, Gardiner, NY, (845) 255-9766 – closed Mondays and Tuesdays
My FAVORITE restaurant in the Gunks area. Also happens to be the closest restaurant to the Gunks. Very popular with climbers, who tend to sit the bar dining area rather than the main dining room. The walls are decorated with climbing photos as well. First thing to note is that this place gets very busy. On fall weekends, you may have to start waiting for a table as early as 3pm. By dinnertime the wait could be well over 1.5 hours. If you have 6 or more people, you can make a reservation, otherwise they don’t take reservations. So where do we start… well, you’ve climbed all day in the hot sun, you’re going to want a beer. They have a nice selection of beer on tap, my favorite of all is the Spaten Octoberfest, which is served year round. I’ve eaten here for probably 20 years, and never had a dish I didn’t like. You must check their specials menu for creative, delicious dishes made with local ingredients when possible. And it’s not just German food. They always have a fascinating and creative vegan dish on the menu, unusual fare such as rabbit soup, kangaroo, or ostrich. Huge portions, tasty sauces, and the best bavarian pretzel you will ever eat. Kids will love the spaetzle with butter or gravy and a hot chocolate. Salads are fantastic, with creative local ingredients in season such as fiddleheads. If you like creamy dressings, try the buttermilk herb dressing on your salad. The german potato salad is a delicious substitute for fries. They also have sandwiches, wurst platters, and the best juicy burger anywhere. The Gunks burger is sandwiched between raisin pumpernickel bread and covered in sauteed onions. If you like creamy mushroom sauces, get the Jaeger Schnitzel, and good luck finishing all of it. I rarely get dessert here because I’m too bloated to even think about dessert, but what I have eaten has all been delicious. Don’t come here if you’re in a rush. Service is attentive and friendly but slow, especially if it’s really busy. Enjoy the good beer, take your time to chew the huge portions of food, and make it an evening.

Joanie’s Bistro Mountain Store (a.k.a. “the Deli”)

3126 Rte 44 55, Gardiner, NY – (845) 255-2999
This is THE place to go before climbing for coffee and breakfast and to mingle with other climbers. Located very close to the Gunks at the intersection of Rt. 299 and Rt. 44/55, it is across the street from the Mountain Brauhaus restaurant. Their menu has lots of tasty wraps and sandwiches with creative combinations, as well as soups and chili. It’s a deli, with various beverages, a small selection of grocery items, and lots of snack foods. There’s an ATM inside as well, and a porta-potty in the parking lot. There are a few tables inside, but most people are out on the deck at the picnic tables. On busy fall weekends, the line is huge. Call your order ahead of time so reduce your wait (grab a take-out menu when you’re there so you have the menu and phone number for the next time). They also have a freezer with various ice cream bars which hit the spot after a hot day climbing. If you’re stuck without a partner, go there in the morning and mingle – you might find a partner while you’re having your coffee.

Lombardis Italian Restaurant

2808 Rt 44/55, Gardiner, NY – (845) 255-9779
When we don’t want to drive into New Paltz and the Brauhaus has a line out the door, Lombardi’s is an alternative. It’s just a little further down Rt. 44/55 towards the village of Gardiner. I’ve only eaten there twice. It has standard Italian food, and I thought the prices were a bit on the high side.

TuthillHouse at the Mill Restaurant

20 Gristmill Ln, Gardiner, NY – (845) 255-4151
This is a fairly new restaurant in the historic gristmill. The fantastic Tuthill Spirits whiskey distillery is also located here and is worth a visit and tour (try their Baby Bourbon!). I’ve only eaten here once. The interior is very nice with the old workings of the gristmill still visible. This is a little fancier than the other restaurants in town, but Gardiner is informal to begin with. The food I had was pretty good, a bit expensive, but honestly, it was not the most amazing meal for that price.

Cafe Mio

2356 Rte 44/55, Gardiner NY – (845) 255-4949 – Closed Tuesdays
This is the best place around for breakfast and lunch. It’s a small cafe right in “downtown” Gardiner, in a shopping center where Rt. 44/55 makes a sharp “S” turn. They focus on local ingredients, and everything there tastes very fresh. They have the best french toast I’ve ever eaten, usually paired with decadent toppings such as strawberries and cream, or carmelized bananas and bacon. Everything comes with a small fresh salad. My daughter is obsessed with their Pesto, Fresh Mozzarella and Tomato Panini. Their omelets are creative and delicious. You won’t be disappointed!

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