Gunks 9/20/02

Spent the day climbing with Johnny and Rick at the Gunks. I've only done Modern Times (5.9) once, and I had to take a hang during the last traverse because my arms were burnt out. I was looking forward to trying it again and doing it cleanly. I led P1, a very enjoyable 5.7, straightforward, nothing weird, tons of pro, simple overhang at the top. At the GT ledge, Rick belayed Johnny up P2, and I took lots of pictures. I went up second and let Rick take pictures of me. I was so excited, this time I flashed it! I just remembered to keep going right, right, right, see the pin above but keep going right 3 more feet, THEN up. Much easier than the first time! I was psyched! Beta: when you start the crux, don't go straight up to the tree, don't even bother using the tree for pro. Just keep going right and it's MUCH easier. Just remember that any pro you put in during the crux is going to tire you out, so be ready and make it quick!

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