Gunks: Modern Times - August 3, 2001

On August 3, 2001, I finally got my chance to try Modern Times, 5.8+ (which I think is bullpoop, that's crux is way too pumpy for a 5.8!). I led the first pitch was a very nice 5.7ish pitch - straight line, great pro, fun overhang at the top. Ethan led the second crux pitch. It is so pumpy that he kept moving and didn't place pro while he did the overhang. Big runout, scared the crap out of me. But he made it up there and then it was my turn. After being a little intimidated by the committment that needs to be made to come out from under the overhang, I did the move and it wasn't too bad, pumpy, moved fast...too fast. After the first set of overhangs, I started going straight up in the direction of a pin over the ledge, instead of traversing about 3 feet right which is supposed to be easier. Ethan pointed this out to me as I was climbing it, so I backed off a little and started traversing right. By this time I was distracted and my arms were wasted. I had to hang and take a rest, then finished it. Oh well, maybe do it cleanly next time.