"The huge central section of the Main Cliff has a prominent horizontal
band of orange quartzite that is clearly visible from the road.
There are a number of excellent one-pitch routes that climb this section
of rock, offering great face climbing on atypical Rumney stone. many
of these routes start off an elevated ledge that is accessed by scrambling
left (third class) above a smaller schist wall."
(from the guidebook)
Underdog *** (5.10a)
Golddigger * (5.8+)
9 bolts to LO. Belay on the ground, and then scramble up to the line of
eyebolts that begins off the 3rd class access to the ledge. A devious
low crux; then climb past the obvious upside-down triangle to a heroic
finish up steep rock on big jugs. Extremely popular, even in winter.
8 bolts to LO. The easiest sport route on this section of cliff offers
varied and interesting climbing. Scramble up to a low slanting ledge, clip
an eyebolt, then follow the corner groove up and right to a tricky exit right
(easier if tall) around the corner to the quick-clips.
Download video clips
(right click on the link, and "Save Target As...", then run from your computer).